Everyday in a different port (today Puerto Rico) means another long hike on land for me. Today I strode off the ship at 9 a.m. and limped back, hot, exhausted but happy at 3 p.m. The reward: new little discoveries which eluded me on previous visits.
There are always the striking blue street paving stones. Their shimmering blue tones are reminders of their trial by furnace, before they were loaded as ballast onto historic merchant ships. Unweary visitors shod in high heeled sandals beware, these attractive ground coverings are veritable booby raps for the oblivious.
Crooked streets, colonial houses with flower-studded balconies, uniquely carved wooden doors, and shady plazas surrounding some of the oldest churches in the Western hemisphere make Old San Juan a pleasure to discover and rediscover again and again.
I wandered along the six meter thick battlement walls from San Juan Gate, to the impressive Fortaleza, and onto Castille de san Felipe del Morro.
A lower path leads along the battlement walls, hugging the sea side. Today's pounding surf (last night's pounding ship movement) made it unsafe for anyone, except hundreds of feral cats, to be anywhere along that path. Waves licked over it and up the base of the towering embattlements. Between El Morro and the sea-side Cementario de San Juan the wall leads to Fuerte Cristobal, the other Fortress of San Juan. In one of the darkest parts of the many tunnels connecting different batteries of the fort is an airless, hot and dank stone walled chamber. The place, where mutineers awaited exection. A few drawings on the wall are witness to their last memories: the sailing vessels on which they served - before mutiny landed them in this horrid cell.
Between the two forts is the district of La Perla, which seems to be the equivalent of the 'other side of the tracks', here the 'other side of the wall'. Graffiti covered houses, garbage strewn rooftops, and half wrecked cars clutter the narrow strip of rocks between wall and surf. Not a good place to be in a hurricane. Plans are in existence to 'clean up', and over the next few years create an extension of parks and trails to replace these decrepit ad hoc hovels.
Beyond Fort San Cristobal stand the Capitol building, topped with an impressive Rotunda. Colourful frescos in it's airy dome illustrate historic moments in St. Juan's history and the usual allegorical paintings of peace, hope, liberty etc etc.
Apart from architecture, statues and history, the most enlightening experience emanates from the local people. It is difficult to 'step into their flip-flops', but observing their daily life affords a glimpse into the REAL life on these enticing islands in the Caribbean. So here are a few images of the people I saw here...
