We docked in Lima on the 16th January, early in the morning, when the coastal fog still blanketed the harbour of Callao. It has not rained here since centuries. But, a few drops had fallen overnight to the surprise of the locals, some of whom had never experienced rain during their entire lifes.
There are no eaves troughs in Lima, the roofs are flat, and the streets have no storm drains. The Inca ruins near the city all all made of adobe. If rain ever becomes an everyday occurence, maybe as the result of global climate change, all the precious artifacts would turn into rivers of ochre mud in a very short time.
I spent the first day exploring Miraflores just south of Lima proper. A few examples of Colonial architecture, sprinkled among the 50yth style concrete blocks, rise around the 'ovalos', surprisingly green parks in the centre of Miraflores. Larcomar, a large upscale shopping centre, is built high and deep into the towering sand cliffs bordering a perfect surf beach. Again, one hopes, global warming won't bring future heavy rains, as the whole complex would probably finish up as beach rubble, topped by the ruins of the glasstowers harbouring the Marriott Hotel and Telmex, a communications giant. So far, they are all standing. A few cliff side restaurants line the open air terrassed walkways of the shopping complex, good places to watch people, the sea way below and enjoy a Pisco Sour and a Ceviche, both delectable specialties of Peru.
I strolled along the Avenida de General Larco when shops and restaurants opened one by one....things don't kick into action here until about 11 a.m. especially on a Saturday. Scotiabank's ATM looked secure enough to withdraw a few Nuevo Soles, the exchange rate being better than in the local shops, who do however accept US dollars, and credit cards in the more 'official ones'. That changes with the distance from the ship; the further away the more essential to carry local currency. I wandered around the craft markets, filled with silver ware, fake inca pottery, and all manner of textiles. Many are woven from Alpaca wool; some of the finest and softest materials originate from the wool of baby alpacas. Designs range from intricate weaving, embroidery, applique and knitting.
I could not resist the lure of a beautiful wall hanging, woven by a well known Andean artist, who combines the antique designs of Chan Chan (adobe friezes of animals, fish, birds and insects) with vibrant natural colours and optical illusions reminiscent of Escher's drawings. However, not something one could see at the artisan's market, where vendors catered more to tourist taste. Had to enter one of the 'real' shops for this little gem.
A couple of books, one authored by the national hero Pablo Neruda (Nobel Prize winner in Poetry) joined my little stash of loot, as well as some local music CD's and - of course - a Peruvian touque made of Alpaca wool.
Finished the day of miles and miles of walking with a meal of corcova ceviche (Peruvian sea bass marinated in lime juice with red onion, hot peppers, corn a big as lima beans, and an unidentifiable herb for decoration, as well as a slice of sweet boiled potato), absolutely scrumptious. Naturally, a Pisco Sour is de rigueur to complete the experience. These are seductive concoctions of shots of a local liquor made from specific grapes (something like Peruvian grappa) mixed with lime juices and topped with whipped eggwhite with a touch of cinnamon. After one of these, the world looks wonderful...after two, things can get a little wobbly.
