Punta Arenas, our last port of call in Chile,is the most southermost Chilean City on the Continent, located on the Strait of Magellan, who discovered it in 1520. The city reflects a broad cultural mix, from influences from English Sheep Ranching, Portugues Sailors, a large Croatian Community, remnants of WWII events, Panama Canal fortunes, California Goldrush. Punta Arenas took it all in. The city is located near Otway Sound, which harbours a huge Magellan Penguin colony, Tierra del Fuego National Park is nearby as well as Parques National Torres del Paine, many Antarctic Expeditions are mounted from here, and a number of ships go into Dry Dock here.
I just headed for town with a shuttle bus, there hailed a 'collectivo', a cheap taxi ($1.25 each way) with predetermined stops, which is shared by people jumping on and off during the route, and drove to the 'Sara Braun' cemetry close to town.
It is a true necropolis, filled with crypts, tombs, and ornate chapels, and accentuated with avenues of precisely trimmed cedars. The cemetery was opened in 1894, a few years after Punta Arenas was first settled in 1849, when colonists arriving from Fuerte Bulnes, a Spanish Colonial town 60km south of Punta Arenas, arrived under the command of Colonel Jose de los Santos Mardones.
The cemetry shows the international diversity of the pioneers, Spanish, Greek, German, English, Italian, Swiss, French and the native Chiloe.
There is even a large complex dedicated to the fallen sailors of many German war ships. An empty munition shell engraved with the name of one of them, the Berlin, stands guard beside a large plaque topped with the emblemic German Eagle.
Back in town, it is Penguin Alley....every store sells penguins, stuffed penguins, lapis lazuli penguin statuettes, penguin jewelery, penguin mugs, penguin gloves, hats, sweaters, scarfs, wallhangings, posters, cards...one needs to drink one of the town's famous hot chocolates to get one's mind onto something non-penguin.
I bade Good Bye to Punta Arenas with a last stroll around Plaza de Armas (each city has one), and a look at the famous statue of a Selk'nam Indian (a depiction of ancient Tierra Fuegans) as well as rub his shiny bronze toe, the only thing bright on his entire bronze body. It is said, rubbing the toe guarantees a future return to Punta Arenas.
Made it back to the ship in good time for ''all aboard' deadline, which had to be extended by almost two hours, as two shore excursions were 'delayed'. One was an adventurous flight and landing to Antarctica, namely the Island of King George...flights to that part of the world are not exactly a paradigm of punctuality. The other was a fly and trek trip to Torres del Paine. Again, on board mechanics had to get their wrenches out to keep the planes going.
We finally cast off in typical Punta Arenas winds :forceful. Entered the Magellan Strait again during long lasting daylight and headed south towards Ushuaia.
