Valparaiso - All Aboard...

Move In Time – Valparaiso, Valley of Paradise, as viewed from  MS Prinsendam’s  deck. No roaming on land for me today – settling in takes it’s time….

 Checking all the nooks and crannies of the ship to see what has changed since my last stay on her.

One area of the ship has changed:  A large open air terrace, part of the Lido Restaurant, which was a favourite al fresco breakfast spot, where one could listen to the sounds of the ocean and take in a fresh morning breeze.  Sometimes, these ‘breezes’ turned out to be hurricane force, and this part of the ship was suitable for fair weather use only.

Prinsendam visits quite a few inclement weather regions, hence the aft terrace  was not used often on certain itineraries – such as the Southern Ocean. It used to be covered by a heavy canvas awning, which ever so often blew away or at least was torn to shreds by heavy winds. Now it is enclosed with industrial strength aluminum framed windows and a glass roof, which  converts the terrace  from a casual outdoor venue  to quite an elegant indoor restaurant with a great view.

Valparaiso is located on adjoining hills, which are covered with houses, access via funicular...

Local Tour Boat....

Fresh Produce and Fruit awaiting to be loaded aboard for the long lonely journey into the Deep South, where the re supply stations are non existent

Well, SNAFU is normal – we start with a little ‘delay’ due to a harbour worker’s strike, which already has an effect on the ever growing mountains of containers, some containing ‘perishables’ as well as the willingness of pilot boats to lead ships out of the confines of the harbour.



 

 

Crowded with fishing boats – we leave Valparaiso Harbour late afternoon. According to the  Captain it is going to blow 30 knots from the South, as we are heading into it. At about 20 knots ship speed, it gives us an apparent wind speed of 57-80 knots.  It’s going to be a bouncy start – 1700km (in land-speed) to Puerto Montt, with a supposedly ‘long swell’ stirring up the South Pacific. My cabin is near the

The ship arrived with code red health advice, meaning that some passengers are indisposed, and the ship is maintained in extreme cleanliness condition, even plastic clad books are disinfected and locked up, no magazines, no self serve food. Even the gentlemen dance hosts are prohibited from ‘touching’ dance partners. One of them wore silicone gloves – one pair for each lady he touched, the other three dancers looked on.

This morning a short blast on the fire alarm, which  turned out to be caused by an over- abundance of ash particles floating in the air of the ship’s incinerator plant.

And so we are bounding along, at least until we enter the ‘quiet' Chilean Fjords. My cabin is located above the ship’s bow bulb, and thus crashes into every huge wave with deafening noise and shuddering vibrations – good way to go to sleep…

bow….I’ll feel the pitching of the ship quite distinctly there…

 

 

 

Santiago - Back in Latin America

Santiago Cathedral, massive building covering almost an entire block.

Santiago is a mix of Colonial, mid fifties and brand new architecture, which makes for an interesting mix. Lots of pedestrian only thoroughfares, with restaurants and shops. The main Square, Plaza de Armas, is under re construction. So the pleasant park in the centre of the city with tree framed views of the Cathedral is blocked off with a high fence, whilst behind it magic is happening - one waits for the next visit to see the result.

Summer temperatures....and the city is in bloom

I happened onto the Central Market, where fresh fish from the Chilean Pacific is sold to the public either 'as is' or converted into one of the many scrumptious Chilean dishes. Restaurant and Fish Store are one and the same thing - and the catch is almost still jumping. Music is not far away of course...

Senior Chilean Citizens, enjoying a luncheon of fish at the market....take note! He is wearing a suit, maybe it may inspire our somewhat more casual friends in northern countries to free the glad rags from the closets???

The market is located in a wrought iron, stained class and metal ceilinged building. Gives the whole scene a somewhat 'Eiffel'esque feel. Every seat taken in the restaurants, must mean the food is good - ergo I joined the fray as well.

House of the Bomberos...Firehall, now used for different purposes

Carabineros are EVERYWHERE, so many I was wondering where the demonstration was going to take place. With so much police in evidence one expects 'trouble' brewing. No, all quiet, everybody going about their business, and these olive drab dressed carabineros hanging out by the dozens.

Who else hangs out by the dozens....stray dogs sleeping in shop entrances, under cars, at the base of decorative trees, on church steps, under restaurant tables. Rather scruffy looking bunch, albeit, people seem to feed them sporadically.

The ornate front of the Post Office in Santiago

Not so Royal, but very friendly, Mounted Police of Chile. The horses just dozed the day away, waiting for something to happen...

Tonight is the last night sleeping on 'solid ground'.
 as of tomorrow I shall sleep in my floating village hotel.

 

Flying to Santiago

Howe Sound....

Mount Baker in passing

American Airlines....crossing Wyoming

It definitely is a Wonderful World down there...

Afternoon Shadows drawing an abstract painting...

Ancient River Delta...

Craters like cosmic eyes in the landscape

A riverbed tracing a curvy trail

Volcanic cones casting long shadows

Power Plant casting very long shadows...

Mountain Ridge again like an abstract painting

Play of light in the setting sun on mountain ranges

I have been flying since decades. But never ever has the view from an aircraft window lost it's magic. The planet seems always magical, beautiful, stunning and surprising - and utterly beautiful.

Ready, aim......FLY!!!

The Mail came through, rain or shine. With my new visa in hand, I am ready to board my floating village home for the next few months. The Ship is going to be a little roomier than this vessel, that cruises below my window right now. Good day for fishing in the Satellite Channel ...
I am hoping for smooth seas (especially around Cape Horn) and sunny skies, just as our local boaters enjoy at present in the middle of January, with a heat wave reaching 10 degrees Celsius.

A milonga or two to go before flying off to Santiago, Chile. Have to keep the Tango spirit alive and 'caminaring' for the next few months. May have to settle for meringue, salsa, rumba, chachacha and samba instead...

A last mail pick-up run to Victoria, with a quick stop at a road side view point to take in the magnificent panorama from our very own mountain pass, the Malahat, over our fjord like Saanich Inlet towards the Olympic Mountains on the far side of Juan de Fuca Strait, shrouded in low lying fog.

Back at my little village, we have a 'bear alert'. Some poor bruin woke up from his winter sleep and stumbled across civilization for a little while, probably sleepwalking. I patrolled the area, no bear in sight, but hundreds of these ducks enjoying the water traps on the golf course, and nibbling at the pretty abundant green shoots of grass. It will all be here in full summer splendour, when I return.

So one is off again...seeking, searching, exploring, living the dream.

Waiting - for the Mail....

Ready to leave lovely Vancouver Island, where we are enjoying almost spring like temperatures and heather and cherry blossoms, to embark on an Epic Journey along South America and Antarctica, up and down the Amazon to Manaus, the Caribbean and Western Africa, Mediterranean Countries, Western Europe all the way to St. Petersburg in Russia.
Just waiting for - my visa for Brazil, as Valentine's Day should see me in Rio de Janeiro, then I may swim with the Piranas up the Amazon.
I cannot join the ship, which will be my 'home' for the duration, until I have this precious little slip of paper in my hand.
All progressing just nicely, however - mail handling at the Consulate and our dear Canada Post (despite "Priority and Express guaranteed next day delivery designations") proceeds at the regular snail mail pace. I think my visa is being delivered via row boat from Vancouver to Vancouver Island.
Ergo - a few more days of wait - whilst the ship travels at 18 knots south towards more and more remote ports, which will be more and more 'complicated' to reach. But...bureaucracy being what it is: one waits patiently!
 Not that the wait is at all unpleasant. There are milongas in the vicinity, and one indulges in Tango a couple of times a week.

 

Reflection in the mirror at Tango Vita Milonga in Victoria

This milonga took place at the MGM Restaurant in Nanaimo, with a large number of bailarines (dancers) participating.

 

Meanwhile back in Buenos Aires: Dia sin Pantalones (day without pants) on the Subways - just to relieve the daily boredom of a commute. Now, with Buenos Aires subways being VERY crowded during rush hour, there must have been some intriguing touch and go moments on the subway cars.

Maybe without street clothes, but still with the almost obligatory high heels, a young woman strolls down a subway aisle, together with her demi suited male companion.

I wonder what the public reaction would be to a similar 'Pantless Day' on our Vancouver Skytrain, in Montreal's Metro, or Toronto's Subway? Apart from the fact, that January is not exactly condusive to half naked commutes, riders may arrive at their destination with various of their body parts frozen solid. Well, this girl would not get cold feet, she is wearing UGGH boots in mid Austral summer.

Argentina Economy - basic food supply prices have been frozen by order of the Argentinian Government. Some produce is included, such as tomatoes.
This grocery supermarket ensures that customers KNOW that their prices are compliant with the latest edict. The price tag reads:
Economic Tomatoes: Those of Cristina (reference to Cristina Kirchner, the President) - 27.97 pesos a kilo.
Official Peso exchange is 6.6 Pesos to a US $, the 'blue market' has risen to 11 Pesos per US $.

 

Just a few more days - I guess - before I join this vessel in Valparaiso, Chile (maybe) and aim for points south....
 

 

 

From Grandiose to Miniscule...

Looking from my balcony towards majestic snow and glacier covered Mount Baker, reaching higher into the clear winter sky than any of the surrounding coastal mountain ranges. The white mountains we see here are in fact part of the USA, but the fir and pine covered Gulf Island in the foreground are part of British Columbia. Turning around from this impressive view....

...a little hummingbird takes a quick rest in my apple tree. Hard to imagine, how a pin-head sized little heart beats in this tiny creature, it keeps warm inside his light feathery coat, and it flits around undaunted by the cold. 

...beside it in my birch tree, a little finch ever watchful for freshly replenished bird feeders...

....and topping my cedar shingle roof, a fat robin, surveying the garden for potential soft earth spots, where he could forage for food...

Time for a little contemplation - in between scarce evenings of Tango in Victoria.

Home on the Ridge.....

Chilly but sunny morning view from my house, with BC Ferry in background leaving Schwartz Bay.

Meeting friends in a local wine bar, drinking Perrier (driving), and reminiscing about Buenos Aires.

My little friend, a male deer, is back in his usual spot below the bedroom window...

Nothing makes him move from his favourite resting spot...he merely lays there all relaxed, chewing his cud

Yes, it is back in Canada. The Maple Leafs are slowly rotting on frost rimmed grass, the trees are bare...



Several months of no water, and my one and only houseplant, a cactus, is as happy as ever...

Planning my next move....journey by ship through the Pacific, the Southern Ocean, South and North Atlantic, The Mediterranean, the North Sea and the Balticum. We'll see.....this homey interlude may be over again soon.