Dia de Tradicion Gauchesco in Mataderos, neighbourhood in Buenos Aires

While part of the hinterland of Pampas surrounding the city of Buenos Aires is still drying out from devastating floods, the Gaucho Tradition Day scheduled for the first weekend of each November maybe cancelled in gaucho country, but it sure is in full swing in the middle of the city, namely in Mataderos, a door to festival grounds bus ride for me. Taxi drivers are not particularly fond of Buenos Aires' almost non stop festivals (or demonstrations) as it usually is combined with closures of several main traffic lanes playing havoc with transit. In Mataderos this happens every weekend for their weekly open air market (weather permitting) however for this annual occasion a few more blocks have to sacrifice their parking and throroughfares and the streets fill up with market stands and most of all curb side Argentinian Parillas/Asados - their kind of BBQ. Smoke pervades the already hot air (30+ degrees again), and only a Quilmes cerveza (beer) served colder than your mother in law's embrace (that's what they say here) alleviates the feeling of being part of the meat frying on their grills.

 

Chorizo sausages, steaks, whole 'roasts' blood sausages...the whole cow!

Traditionally dressed gauchos seem to have climbed out of the pages of the book Martin Fierro, one of the best known pieces of literature in all of Argentina. Note the lace trimmed calzones (long pants) and the poncho worn as over pants...

Not everything on a BBQ appears to originate from cows or pigs, though.....

Working clothes of  today's gaucho - here donned to celebrate the festival

In the main plaza of Mataderos stand 'El Resero' the cattle man. This area of Buenos Aires had and still has many slaughter houses, where the country's main agricultural product (after soja) is processed for local and overseas consumption.

Street stands sell everything from Gaucho gear, saddlery, cheese, bread, sausages, olives and preserves, artisan handicrafts, clothing, toys....you name it.

The victims of wide spread flooding are not forgotten. Here a hand written poster on a sidewalk, requesting donations of  non perishable food, diapers, cleaning supplies (much needed after that mess), mattresses (which either floated away or were soaked in flood and sewer waters)....and so on

No floods here, the sun beats down pitilessly and one searches for scarce sport of shade

Not a politically incorrect sign at a bar's lady's toilet. A 'china' is gaucho idiom for a common law wife or girlfriend...

A stage has been erected in front of the Resero Statue, live folkloric music - much by very well known bands and artists - inspire everyone in the huge crowd to dance chacarera or zamba, or a gatito...
yours truly danced with a number of the visitors, including a few acquaintances. It is surprising, how in a city of 13 million, one may run into all kinds of people one knows from somewhere else...

Many bands hailing from other provinces who play at this annual festival wear gaucho outfits and distinctive ponchos. El bombo, the large drum, features in every dance...

My old girl friend Sol (Sun). She is an eight year old, who adorns the furniture and sales counter of one of the surrounding saddleries/gaucho gear stores. I have been visiting here every year since 4 years...and she is as sweet and loving as ever.

This little guy takes his recreation on the seat of a kid's horse buggy. Two more slept in the 'luggage compartment' of same buggy.

Rides anyone???

Music Student Orchestra...

Andine faces from far flung Argentina

Gaucho singing his 'coplas', poetic verses in a particular and ever repeated measure describing gaucho life.

Fileteado - hand painted sign as sold in many street side stands

Not into dancing Zamba or Chacarera - just wearing his gaucho t-shirt

Tango is not forgotten....here two fiesta participants in the colours of the Argentinian Flag: sky blue and white. The whole affair is highly patriotic with many 'Vive La Patria' shouts after popular performances by folkloric dancers or singers

Faces in the crowd

Young Chacarera dancer....
I visited the fair with the intention of staying no more than a couple of hours. But I remained almost the entire day until the last band (Los Carabajal - see Youtube) packed up, and the last of the dancing public had tucked their panuelos (kerchiefs used during dancing) back into their pockets. By that time I had nearly ruined by feet with dancing tango on concrete floor under the arches of the local museum...and joining into the folk dancing despite a killing heat that made one feel dizzy after every round of chacarera.

Almost every Argentinian knows how to play the guitar - and mostly do it well - but the start practising early!!

 

And here a last link to the band Los Carajabal, who played the last set before the Fiesta ended.

Photos of the gaucho horse even, that took place on one of the side streets later....