Estancias Jesus Maria, Caroya and Santa Catalina in Cordoba Province, Argentina

The Jesuit Estancia Jesus Maria was founded in 1618. About 50 km north of Cordoba, it formed a secondary centre which specialized in wine production. There is a church with an impressive central cupola.

A two level cloister housed the padres. The servant and slave quarters have disappeared, and the old farm and grass lands are now occupied by urban development.

There are remains of an old wind mill, the 'tajamar' - water reservoir - and a large wine cellar.

Estancia Caroya a few kilometers away from Jesus Maria, was built in 1616 as one of the first rural Jesuit establishments. It was purchased in 1661 by Ignacio Duarte Quiros, a clergyman, who also founded the Cordoba College of Monserrat. He used it to donate income generated from the Estancia as financial support to the college, as well as making it available to college students of the time as a vacation residence.
Today's museum decorations are of somewhat dubious authenticity, but still give an interesting glimpse of the Estancia's history

A pleasant court yard, graced with lavender bushes and orange trees houses also a well. The Estancia was used as a weapons factory between 1814-1816.

Ripe oranges - ready for picking

Long after the Jesuits were expelled, Estancia Coroya became the property of the Argentine Government in 1854.

Museum rooms of the Estancia Caroya house a diverse collection of antique furniture and decorations

In 1878 Estancia Caroya served as the first residence for the first group of immigrants arriving from the Friuli region of Italy. These people founded the present city of Caroya.
Not really up to present day luxury cruise ship standards, the way these immigrants were crammed into their ocean steamers

The last estancia I visited, Estancia Santa Catalina, the only Estancia in private hands and a World Heritage Site, was built by the Jesuits in 1622. Apart from the Jesuit complex in Cordoba city, it is the largest remaining Estancia in Cordoba Province, about 70 km north of the Capital.

A large church with an impressive facade, two bell towers and and richly ornamented cupola, is surrounded by cloisters with three central courtyards, various residences, a small graveyard, and a vegetable garden.

Living quarters for the novitiate, local people and slaves were outside the main complex. There is a complex irrigation system with underground water conduits, which originate in Ongamina, several kilometers away.
Windmills, looms, smithy, carpenter shops make up the main complex surrounding the church.

In it's heyday, the Estancia raised around 15.000 mules a year to supply trade on the Camino Real. The Jesuits also raised sheep and cattle.

Sanitary facilities date back to the original inhabitants, except with one noticable exception. This one without flushing mechanism, hence the bucket in the adjoining sink.

The Jesuits represented a pround Christ on the Cross, with his back straight and his head lifted high and gazing into the distance

However, this representation of Jesus looks as if knee replacements in ancient times were not very successful

The Jesuits had constructed a long escape tunnel, originating inside the church and emerging far away in the hills. However, when need arose for them to flee at time of expulsion, the tunnel was of little use, as they were surprised early morning whilst the cloister was still enjoying a good night's rest

Several bells of the church are on display - all cracked or broken for various reasons....

The slave quarters adjoining the main complex, have been turned into a pleasant small posada (inn). Rooms were originally occupied by unmarried slave girls, today they can be rented from the owners. A little restaurant with attached craft store and parilla make up the little out of the way inn.

Out of the way is definitely the right word, as Estancia Catalina is still surrounded by fields, grass land and sierra...the odd gaucho rides past or finishes his work in the fields

Just as well the torrential rains, which had caused massive flooding in this area, had stopped a week ago. Acces roads to Santa Catalina are strictly dirt - or mud or dust, depending on the weather...