Estancia San Gertrudis, Sierras of Cordoba

For a day in the Cordobes Sierras, one heads to Candonga, about  a couple of hours drive via tortuously winding mountain roads - mostly gravel or dirt, allowing sweeeping vistas of the Sierras. Candonga, and specifically Estancia San Gertrudis are located in a pleasant valley, where at its lowest point, a sparkling river feeds verdant forests and rich vegetable fields.

After heavy rainfalls in previous weeks, the 'desert' of the surrounding hills and mountains is in bloom.

Estancia San Gertrudis despite its remoteness offers more than all the comforts of home. Beautifully kept grounds, swimming pool with bar and palapa covered porches (all totally dead today), parilla, posada, restaurant, small museum, all of which lend themself to wedding feasts, concert performances and small conferences.
A whole pack of friendly dogs has the run of the place and greets everyone with more or less desired doggy kisses.

A little white washed chapel sits in the centre of the valley.

In the middle of nowhere, the Estancia offers varied services - however, the restaurant is only serving meals upon previous reservation...as the tour was geared to a 'cabalgata' (trailride) combined with an open air BBQ halfway through the ride,the restaurant was NOT open for business.
I had decided to let the small group to their horsey thing and remain behind (my knee would not have approved of a four hour ride) not knowing that I was concemned to starvation diet. However, one of the cleaning ladies took  pity on me and found a Quilmes cerveza somewhere, a welcome relief on a day with 34 degrees heat.

Is says 'abierto' - open - but not today

A river runs through the property, and a hanging bridge leads from the swimming pool to the organic vegetable fields

Midday heat, the sun almost straight above, and any spot if shade is welcome

First time I ever saw horses being 'herded' just like sheep. The border collie was trained tofollow whistle commands and select a certain horse from the hill side and 'herd' it right through a little gate into this corrall. Then he would sit by the gate and make sure, the horse would not escape again.

Most of the horses living in the valley run free in the surrounding hill sides and graze there. But a number of horses, a couple of cows with their calves and a few sheep lived in a rock walled paddock, with plenty of water and sufficient shade.

One of two foals, which accompanied her mother who carried one of the guests on the trail ride.

First time up - ever - this young boy from Finland stood in front of the horse and asked 'What do I do now' and Salvador, the gaucho tour guide, suggested to climb up 'gaucho style'. A bit of a challenge, as gauchos swing themselves into the saddle without the benefit of stirrups. Well, the kid climbed up 'tourist style', the mare had seen it all before, and her foal kept on snacking during the whole process

And they are off into the hills

Everything in bloom...

There are so many converging dirt roads/paths that one may wander off into the surrounding hills for ever new vistas and hundreds of mountain flowers. I did not venture too far, as I did not want to get lost, especially in the deadening heat of the day.

Staircase to give access to the chapel roof...

Old horse and cattle barn, now used as a garage

Left over from a Parilla

Cloudless sky...

A little golondrina (swallow) with beautiful long tail feathers

Not much action on the main drag through the Estancia, here a gaucho leading a polo pony from its pasture to????

After a ride through valleys and mountains, rivers and dirt paths the trail-riders are back - none the worse for wear.

Little bird leaving its nest of labouriously gathered twigs

A quiet day, wandering around, exploring the village, watching birds and butterflies, smelling 'the roses'...

Estancias Jesus Maria, Caroya and Santa Catalina in Cordoba Province, Argentina

The Jesuit Estancia Jesus Maria was founded in 1618. About 50 km north of Cordoba, it formed a secondary centre which specialized in wine production. There is a church with an impressive central cupola.

A two level cloister housed the padres. The servant and slave quarters have disappeared, and the old farm and grass lands are now occupied by urban development.

There are remains of an old wind mill, the 'tajamar' - water reservoir - and a large wine cellar.

Estancia Caroya a few kilometers away from Jesus Maria, was built in 1616 as one of the first rural Jesuit establishments. It was purchased in 1661 by Ignacio Duarte Quiros, a clergyman, who also founded the Cordoba College of Monserrat. He used it to donate income generated from the Estancia as financial support to the college, as well as making it available to college students of the time as a vacation residence.
Today's museum decorations are of somewhat dubious authenticity, but still give an interesting glimpse of the Estancia's history

A pleasant court yard, graced with lavender bushes and orange trees houses also a well. The Estancia was used as a weapons factory between 1814-1816.

Ripe oranges - ready for picking

Long after the Jesuits were expelled, Estancia Coroya became the property of the Argentine Government in 1854.

Museum rooms of the Estancia Caroya house a diverse collection of antique furniture and decorations

In 1878 Estancia Caroya served as the first residence for the first group of immigrants arriving from the Friuli region of Italy. These people founded the present city of Caroya.
Not really up to present day luxury cruise ship standards, the way these immigrants were crammed into their ocean steamers

The last estancia I visited, Estancia Santa Catalina, the only Estancia in private hands and a World Heritage Site, was built by the Jesuits in 1622. Apart from the Jesuit complex in Cordoba city, it is the largest remaining Estancia in Cordoba Province, about 70 km north of the Capital.

A large church with an impressive facade, two bell towers and and richly ornamented cupola, is surrounded by cloisters with three central courtyards, various residences, a small graveyard, and a vegetable garden.

Living quarters for the novitiate, local people and slaves were outside the main complex. There is a complex irrigation system with underground water conduits, which originate in Ongamina, several kilometers away.
Windmills, looms, smithy, carpenter shops make up the main complex surrounding the church.

In it's heyday, the Estancia raised around 15.000 mules a year to supply trade on the Camino Real. The Jesuits also raised sheep and cattle.

Sanitary facilities date back to the original inhabitants, except with one noticable exception. This one without flushing mechanism, hence the bucket in the adjoining sink.

The Jesuits represented a pround Christ on the Cross, with his back straight and his head lifted high and gazing into the distance

However, this representation of Jesus looks as if knee replacements in ancient times were not very successful

The Jesuits had constructed a long escape tunnel, originating inside the church and emerging far away in the hills. However, when need arose for them to flee at time of expulsion, the tunnel was of little use, as they were surprised early morning whilst the cloister was still enjoying a good night's rest

Several bells of the church are on display - all cracked or broken for various reasons....

The slave quarters adjoining the main complex, have been turned into a pleasant small posada (inn). Rooms were originally occupied by unmarried slave girls, today they can be rented from the owners. A little restaurant with attached craft store and parilla make up the little out of the way inn.

Out of the way is definitely the right word, as Estancia Catalina is still surrounded by fields, grass land and sierra...the odd gaucho rides past or finishes his work in the fields

Just as well the torrential rains, which had caused massive flooding in this area, had stopped a week ago. Acces roads to Santa Catalina are strictly dirt - or mud or dust, depending on the weather...

Camino de las Estancias Jesuiticas - Cordoba Province, Argentina

The Society of Jesus, better known as the Jesuits, were of major importance in the spiritual, cultural and economic development of South America, and specifically here in the Province of Cordoba in Argentina. They arrived in 1599, and were expulsed by King Charles III of Spain in 1767. Their architects, engineers, doctors of medicine, agriculturalists and philosophers not only brought Christian beliefs to Cordoba, but by building a number of Estancias were instrumental in founding Cordobas Educational Centres, Infrastructure and Commerce.
In Cordoba City, which was then the Capital of the extensive 'Jesuit Province of Paraguay', which included Argentina, Paraguay, Brazil, Bolivia, Uruguay and Chile, the Jesuits concentrated on Educational and Spiritual Issues. They founded several universities, which formed the beginning of the development of Cordoba into a City of Learning.
Today La Manzana Jesuitica, the Jesuit Block, has been designated as a National and World Heritage Site. It is located in the centre of Cordoba, and consist of the main church, a chapel, the residence of the padres, a university and two colleges...all still in use to this day.

Centre Court of the University in the Manzana Jesuitica

Church of the Jesuit Block. The nave is built like an inverted boat hull (the architect was a boat builder) and it's vaulted ceiling is constructed without the use of nails)

Upper part of one of the massive wooden carved doors leading into the university

A stark front of the Jesuit Church

Five other Jesuit Estancias were built along the Camino Real to support commerce and traffic. These are Alta Gracia (above) 1643, Caroya (1616), Jesus Maria (1618), Santa Catalina (1622) and Candelaria (1678)

Alta Gracia Jesuit Estancia concentrated on wine production. Much of the work was performed, as was a reality in all these estancias, by natives and slaves, who had their quarters in or around the estancias.
This complex is adjacent to a water reservoir (still in existence) which the Jesuits built to support the community with water and the gardens and fields with irrigation. There is a farriers shop, a mill, a kiln, wine production facilities and of course a church and residences. 

Pleasant gardens are part of Alta Gracias present appearance

A large library contains a special treasure: one of the two original  Gutenberg Bibles, which were printed in Germany during Luther's life time. The Jesuits studied Luthers theological ideas which were contained in this priceless edition of the Bible, to better understand and defend the Catholic principles of Christian Faith

Late Italian Baroque style is evident in the impressive church facade

Alta Gracia is located about an hours drive south of Cordoba, the next day will take me north to Jesus Maria, Caroya and Santa Catalina.