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| Prinsendam in Lisbon Port |
Portugal - Porto Gallo - Port of the Rooster? One may almost think along those lines looking at the famous rooster emblem of Portugal.
Lisbon, last stop on the European Continent before heading back to North America across the Atlantic. And no rain!! What better invitation than that to re-explore the city with it's towering Castelo de Sao Jorge beckoning from one of her seven low hills rising above the River Tagus (Rio Tejo). To make things even better, Prinsendam docked upriver, beyond the span of the soaring 25 April Bridge across the Tagus, at the foot of Afama, the old centre of town. No shuttle bus nor train ride needed to reach town.
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| Azulejos covered house facade |
Alfama buildings and winding streets and alleys all originate pre-17th Century, many clearly influenced by Moorish style. Some streets are so narrow, two people cannot pass each other.
Baixa, the vibrant commercial district which has some wide avenues covered with black and white basalt and limestone mosaic pavement, connected with crooked passages, lays adjacent to the Alfama district. Art Nouveau style prevails, and the ground floors of buildings contain a huge variety of shops, bodegas, hotels, street side cafes and bistros with the obligatory line up of al fresco seating under huge umbrellas, elegant eating venues as well as traditional bacalhau (salted cod) cafes. Generous Rossio Square marks the centre of activity
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| View from Castillo towards Rossio Square, City Centre of Lisbon |
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| Almost nauseating mosaic waves on Rossio Square |
I made my way to Tram 28 (or 12) a relic from old electric tram days but still in working order and so popular with locals and visitors alike, that one may have to stand in line and wait for a car which still has sardine space breathing room. About 2 Euros buy a ticket for the run, regardless of length. This yellow contraption rattles and groans its way up steeply snaking streets, not much wider than the tracks. If one is not squeezed tightly amongst a bunch of passengers and is lucky enough to garner a slot beside a window, one is treated to breathtaking views and a good sampling of local scenery.
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| Line 28 turning a corner in front of a cathedral |
I wiggled my way off the tram at the approach to Castelo de Sao Jorge, which I had visited a few years ago in the rain - and wanted to re-explore once again. Most city museums were closed anyway, as Monday is a day of rest for curators and museum staff.
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| No crowds, just a few visitors at the castle wall |
The castle is built in Moorish style, but dates back to a 5th Century Visigoth fortification. In the 11th century, Moorish rulers built the almost inaccessible castle It was not a royal residence but intended as housing for troops and safe haven for the Elite during times of siege, when people would live in the alcacova (citadel).
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| Sculpture in front of castle fortifications |
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| Castle 'terrace' |
Eleven of the square solid and unadorned towers remain, one of which used to house two lions, one a cistern for water supply, and one was later used for a 'camera oscura'. Leonardo da Vinci had invented an optical system of lenses and mirrors in the 16th century, which provided a 360 degree view of the city in real time. Although the 'camera oscura' still exists, access today was denied.
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| Castle cats. Note the donations on the red rug, these felines are earning their kibble even without the resident flutist playing a tune.. |
Instead, at the entrance to one of the bare high walled inner courtyards, the citadel's population of cats rested on a colourful collection of old clothes and rags, whilst a flutist played a lively tune, and visitors tossed coins 'to the mini lions'.
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| Antique hand painted tile |
In 1147, the first king of Portugal, Dom Alfonso Henriques, conquered Lisbon and transformed the castelo into a royal palace. A severe earthquake in 1755 took its toll, but the castle survived to this day with a number of restorations and changes happening over the last few centuries.
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| Azulejo with cherub |
Impressive vistas offer themselves from the battlements: the river, the bridge, the red tiled roofs of Lisbon, the surrounding hills. And overlooking it all there stands a 230 meter figure of Christ the Redeemer on a hilltop along the far side of the Tagus River. The latter a reminder that there is more than a casual relationship between Portuguese Lisbon and Brazilian Rio de Janeiro. Pedro Alvares Cabral was the explorer who reached Brazil from Portugal.
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| Fountain in the castle's courtyard |
Mercifully tourist crowds were almost non existing today. The castle museum (open) contains small collection of antique painted azul tiles as well as other archaeological artifacts.
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| Fragments of old azulejos |
Instead of squishing myself into another yellow tram I took winding stair cases, narrow alleys and quaint cobbled streets back to 'City Level'. A little jaunt where one admires the blue tiled house facades, wrought iron lamps, ornate balconies adorned with flowers, azulejo tiled fountains and striking public sculptures, a series of impressive cathedrals, leads back to Baixa with its vibrant city life and inviting side walk cafes...a good excuse for the last Continental indulgence: tapas and a glass of wine.
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| Castle dog awaiting his master under his very own umbrella |
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| Street scene near the Port |
Although the ship was not leaving before midnight, I returned late afternoon - thoroughly 'walked out'. A few steps from the dock, a little bodega invited to the one, only, first and last Porto. I tasted a tawny golden variety, smooth as honey. Being near the port, a few less eclectic characters hang around the streets, and indulged in their porto straight from the bottle.
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| Street side cafe in the Port area |
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| Better straight from the bottle.... |
Aboard that evening, the 'Showroom at Sea' was filled to the last seat, despite a late scheduled departure which allowed for a longer shore leave for passengers. Reason for the high interest was the promised performance by a local music group by the name of TUNA. The name seemed to me somewhat doubt inspiring, as it sounded like a can of fish.
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| Statue in the castle courtyard |
What made the performance unusual was the fact that all members were students at a Lisbon University specializing in architecture. Anyone, who had expected an amateurishly produced set, would have been startled at the size of the group alone, at least 40-50 young very good looking people.
Their repertoire as well as their artistic skill playing a variety of instruments (percussion, guitars, mandolins and local string instruments, bass violin, flute and even an accordion) was admirable. Last but not least: they could sing!! Not only in tune, but producing some quite complicated harmonic chords, using their tenors, baritones, basses, sopranos and altos with utmost vocal mastery.
All dressed conservatively in dark suits (the ladies) and dark morning coat attire (the young men) they were a visual delight, looking fit, happy, confident and sometimes charmingly shy, when announcing their various pieces in halting English.
Fado, the Portuguese musical specialty, prevailed filling the theatre with lively rhythm and melodious song. Unfortunately they did not take advantage of the captive and appreciative audience to sell any CDs, hence no proof and record of this quite enjoyable and surprisingly professional show.
We are off, heading west into the sunset as of tonight. The entire Atlantic lays before us, with it the potential for stormy weather, flat calm seas, colour bursts of sunsets, dull rain squall veiled horizons, heaving seas, subtropical downpours or the magical feeling of floating in the midst of a giant blue perfectly circular salver, covered by a perfect spherical dome of azure blue sky.
After a rush of ports it is welcome time for reading, writing, and all the 'activities' offered at sea.The Kindles come out, the Bridge players huddle together, Educational speakers tell about Atlantic geography and journeys of Magellan, one hears some tingles from the Casino, cooking classes turn the movie theatre into a gourmet workshop, Microsoft computer classes draw the Luddites, power walkers and strollers circle the promenade deck skirting deck chairs filled with snoozers, champagne invitations pop up, Captain's receptions and lunches, and there are subtle encouragements for booking the next 'maritime adventure.
Relative peace at least until we reach Horta, the last tender port of call in the Azores.
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| Relief depicting one of the many symbols of Portugal's seafaring past |
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| Maintaining the plaza mosaics.... |
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| View toward the bridge over the Tejus River |
