Durban, our last call in Africa, and jump off point for a visit to Tala Game Reserve, is one of the few natural harbours between Port Elizabeth and Maputo. The strong Aghulas current and particularly odd weather patterns can create extremely violent seas. Durban was a convenient port for ship repairs, AND now has become the busiest port in South Africa as well as the busiest container port in the southern hemisphere. Much of the port's trade originates from industry and mining in Johannesburg, which does not have access to navigable waters.
Durban is the largest city in KwaZulu Natal, and is famous for its subtropical climate and beautiful beaches. Over many years of colonialization it added many attractive buildings ranging in style from Colonial, Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco, as well as moorish Mosques and Hindu temples. Fifties style apartment buildings decay slowly, as does most of the city centre, which has been abandoned by businesses moving to the outskirts.
Now, the city centre has taken on a dilapidated and decrepit air. Beautiful architecture is marred by neglect, graffiti and general decay. Crumbling highway overpasses are covered with rows upon rows of vendor stalls.
The centre is said to be so dangerous, that local white and even some black residents avoid entering it. Muggings, assaults etc are common occurences.
That is not to say that the centre is deserted, on the contrary, masses of people bustle about, wait for buses, go shopping, sell and buy in the many markets, walk about the streets, or rush about in man pulled rickshas. An odd phenomena is the fact that most streets have two names: the old names mostly commemorating some colonialo person or date, and the new ones - in the native language - commemorating ANC heroes or government officials. Somewhat difficult to find one's way, as most maps only show the old nomenclature and none of the new. It there are street signs, both names are displayed, with the old one sporting a large cross through the stencil.
On the way to Tala transiting the city, I got a small taste of Durban downtown ambiance from the safety of my bus window. A small crowd of people waited at a bus stop. Amongst them lay a man on the sidewalk, either dead, passed out, or maybe just sleeping. His head was hidden amongst the waiting pedestrians and his shod feet extended over the gutter into the street, toes pointing skyward. A young man nonchalantly climbed over him, looked interestedly at the man's feet, bent down, removed the man's shoes, put them under his arm and went on his way. No one at the bus stop even bothered to take notice and the robbed man laying on the pavement did not move either.
Someone in the bus murmured: Welcome to Durban.
The downtown core is a mix of black Zulu, Koi San (descendents of Hottentots and Bushmen, as the old Afrikaaners impolitely called them), Indian Muslims and Hindi, legal and illegal immigrants from neighbouring countries and - what is known as - coloured people. I did not see a single white person in downtown Durban, fear rules. Security men with sticks guard every shop above kiosk standard, and almost outnumbered regular passers by.
The outskirts attempt to attract a wealthier population, there are pleasant looking esplanades, shopping centres, marine worlds, beach activities like surfing etc, plenty of new apartment buildings and even man made canals winding their way amongst the condo complexes. In the background, another one of the gigantic brand new soccer stadiums built for the 2010 World Cup. A large ornate shopping mall outside the city seeems to be a new and somewhat safer addition to the city scape.
The views gradually change the further one distances oneself from the city. Rolling hills, sugar cane fields, veld, brushland. Some areas are developed now into small settlements of one-bedroom houses for black people, who may be entitled to get a house free (under a government plan to get each person into a house), together with 4KWH of free electricity and about 5 hectolitres of water per months. If they use more, they are charged double the regular rate - which most of them have to do. Chainlink fences and razor wire mark the landscape wherever there is any human habitation.
It comes as an almost embarrassing culture shock to arrive at a Game Reserve, with luxuriously appointed cabins, clean toilets, running water and inviting hygienic dining rooms - all with a view over an inspiring landscape where animals enjoy a protected life, and travellers and visitors observe in comfort and safety the beautiful remnants of a once plentiful animal world, far removed from the enigma that is Africa.
