The Amsterdam docked in Montevideo, Uruguay, at 08:00 on Tuesday, Feb. 9. 2010.
Montevideo is the capital and largest city in Uruguay, situated on the shores of the Rio de la Plata. Half the Uruguayan population (about 4 million total) lives here, seat of government, financial institution, commerce and most of the South Atlantic fishing fleet. The rest of the country is mostly rural, with cattle outnumbering people 2-1 and sheet outnumbering cattle 4-1.
The name Montevideo is said to come from Portuguese 'Monte vide eu'. meaning 'I see a mountain'. And indeed there is a small hill along the mostly flat shore, which may have been a distinctive mark for navigators in the 17th century.
I skipped visiting the old city this time, after having the opportunity to explore its colonial streets, markets, restaurants, art galleries, leather vendors, plazas and mate cafes a few years ago.
I headed for Colonia de Sacramento, one of the oldest towns in Uruguay, also located on the Plata river, almost across the water from Buenos Aires.
Uruguay has a relatively high standard of living, with a large proportion of the population belonging to the middle class. However the country still has to deal with very poor barrios, where the growing wealth of the small nation has not yet made an impact. It is a democratic country, with regular elections. And the local graffiti showns, that citizens are visibly 'vocal' about their political ideas. There is little pure vandalism graffiti, most appears in the poor barrios and is almost exclusively politically oriented.
The drive from Montevideo to Sacramento covers about 165 km along four-line (or at least divided) highways, in excellent condition. The highway winds its way through bucolic country with rolling low hills, almost all cultivated with wine (very good here, but not exported due to low production volumes), hay fields, potatoes, vegetables etc. What is not cultivated is fenced and sheep, Hereford and Frisian cattle graze, with a great number of very well fed and good looking horses mingling among them. The odd hacienda or small farm dot the fields.
Sacramento, my destination, has true old colonial charm. The mostly one story buildings are constructed in either Portuguese or Spanish colonial style, the difference seems to consist in different style of roofs - tile or adobe. Beautiful earth-tones from rusty reds, ochres, burnt sienna make up the crumbling stucco walls. Small windows, low doorways, cobbled streets, lots of climbing, tumbling vines, flowers and trees. Most cobbles are not of a uniform design, but laid with randomly placed stones put together in a way that forms a drainage channel down the middle of the narrow hilly streets.
Large shade giving trees line almost all the streets and fill the various town squares. Cafes can be found at almost every corner and invite the stroller to take a little siesta under a shady tree or a colourful umbrella. The Rio de la Plata forms a natural limit to one side ot the town, and the brown brackish waters roll quietly towards the sea, past an old light-house, built upon the ruins of an old catholic convent. A peaceful colonial atmosphere pervades the quaint town, and a few antique cars of later years bring a touch of dilapidated 'modernity' to the scene. A delight for any painter looking for warm and sunny colours and intriguing textures, and a delight for any gourmet wanting to submit to culinary surprises.
The departure from Montevideo this evening ended the unforgettable visit to the South American and Antarctic Continents. Now we head for the next Continent: Africa, cruising along the Great Circle Route with our port of call being Walvis Bay in Namibia. We will be far away from any shipping routes, and have eight days at sea to contemplate our next adventures, study lectures on African issues, paint a few more water colours and find time to actually enjoy the increasing temperatures and sunshine on deck. 400 passengers disembarked in Buenos Aires, and only 200 joined the journey there. Now the decks, pools, libraries etc are even more uncrowded and pleasant. For some reason, the dance floor is more popular.
One minor 'adventure' has already happened to me, as the ships laundry 'misdirected' almost all my underwear and a couple of my walking pants, and presented me with a version that would befit an African pachiderm. As I was not interested in 'strange vestments' I am awaiting the ships decision on plan 'B' in this trivial matter, which in this case means a trip to the next land based store for me to replace the lost items.
We still have internet coverage here in the great big South Atlantic and so far pick up Equatorial satellites...
