Saturday, February 6, 2016

Strolling in San Telmo

The City of Buenos Aires is a furnace....35 degrees when counting the humidity factor. Taking a day off from tangoing, to take a collective (not air conditioned) to the other side of town and wander around San Telmo, one of the older parts of Buenos Aires and a show case for charming architecture (sometimes a little dilapidated) dating back to the last couple of Centuries.
 
 
'Street Art' at every corner, which likens a stroll to a walk through an art gallery, albeit viewing works of anonymous painters. Some of the wall paintings are quite stunning, however, much of the 'vandalism' branch of art turns up quite frequently as well.

Plaza Dorrego, where tango dancers practice their show routines, sometimes 'harvest' future pupils, sometimes just try to make ends meet collecting donations from tourists watching from the restaurant tables all over the Plaza.

One ALWAYS can tell who are the tourists....unfortunately the influx of tourists has a serious effect on prices around the plaza....a small glass of beer sells for 45 pesos!!! If one visits one of the 'Kioskos' one may buy a 1/2 liter can of beer for less than half the price.

Entry way to a shop in San Telmo

 
Street Corner in SanTelmo
 

Tango Boutique Hotels invite tourists to stay and savour the local ambiance...

Lali and Alejandro....dancing tango on Plaza Dorrego. They danced beautifully, which is not always the case with tango 'Buskers'....but these two excelled in elegance and low key harmonious dancing

Architecture surrounding Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo

Any colour goes....

I have benn walking past this 'oriental' Antique Store for years now....the same Netzukes still smile at you from the store window...

San Telmo market looks as if it could have been designed by the architect of Les Halles in Paris...

To keep within the 'artistic' theme, the market sells visual art, antiques, 'old stuff', second hand treasures....you name it

Abandoned Animals....fur apparel, quite often made from now extinct fur bearing animals, can be bought by ladies, who want to recreate the 'kill them off for clothes' era....

However, the centre of the market is still a real 'market', selling fruit, vegetable, bread, cheeses, meats etc. I saw some super sized cherries, but at 60 pesos (6 Dollars CAN) for half a pound I refrained...

Metal and Glass...intricate roofing

Old dolls...

old type writers...

Fruit and Antiques...side by side

Antique shops are quite eclectic, and one finds a curious combination of wares in all of them...

A sample of modern decorative art....

Boemische Doerfer....if anyone knows, what that refers to...

Historic Bar in San Telmo, Calle Estados Unidos

Heading for the bus stop....Collectivo 152 on Paseo Colon

Elegant example of San Telmo architecture along Paseo Colon

Monday, February 1, 2016

Castellano or Lunfardo...additions to the traveller's dictionary

A translation of a few words in Spanish (or as they speak here in Argentina 'Castellano') may not appear in regular dictionaries, may be of interest to a visitor to Buenos Aires.

A few self employed entrepreneurs populate the streets of Buenos Aires. They are more or less tolerated by the general public, but on occasion not by the local law enforcers. They represent a segment of the 'underground' labour force, which may not be entirely legal or may in certain cases indeed belong to a branch of organized crime.

Lets introduce the MANTEROS first

Manteros (manta = table cloth)
Street vendors spread out their blankets and cover them with wares of doubtful origin along sidewalks, pedestrian thoroughfares, near rail and bus stations and wait for commerce.

Trade is always brisk, as the merchandise is usually cheap (illegally produced and or brought to market). Regular shops may offer apparently identical merchandise at higher prices a few steps away from the manteros.

Obviously, the legal businesses are not happy with this unwanted competition. Certain parts of the city almost become impossible to transit on foot, with high incidence of pick pocketing de rigeur. The metropolitan police force attempts to 'clean up', which often result in 'mantero protests'. But, like in the case of tourist heaven Calle Florida, the offending manteros are 'removed' and soon turn up in some other location not yet targeted for clean up, but promising good trade.

And then we have the CARTONEROS

Cartoneros, people who raid the recycle bins for cartons and corrugated paper.

Some cartoneros use horses to transport their booty.

The cartoneros are the unofficial recycle sorters, packers and sellers of almost anything that can be dug out of the 'new' huge recycle bins along many of the city streets and avenues. Their re-sorting plant usually covers several street corners, where traffic streams by, and pedestrians pick their way through heaps of debris. It can be a bit disconcerting, leaving Nueve Chique dressed in 'tango fashion' after dark and pass through a flock of these guys.


The 're-sorting' and wrapping takes place at selected street corners of el Centro, one of them near the milonga Nuevo Chique.



The job of TRAPITOS (trapo - rag) seem to be an international phenomenon. They clean windshields at intersections, guard parked vehicles, and get paid in tips.

 
Windshield clean ???

 
Carwash while you park.
 
The trapitos are a special tribe: insistent, aggressive and at times downright extornionistic. Drivers routinely lock their cars while driving and even keep windows tightly rolled up (even if  their car lacks air conditioning and the city is a furnace) when transiting certain districts of the city.
Grab and run thefts are common. Refusing to have a windshield cleaned may result in some 'accidental damage' to a car's exterior. During one incident just a week ago, a driver refused to pay for unwanted windshield washing, and was promptly knocked out by a burly trapito. The driver is still in hospital in a coma....

And then we have people who earn a good salary, but have no visible work to show for it. It is said, that over 200,000 public employees have been put on payroll 'in a hurry' to the tune of about 100 per day in the last few years (lottery, connections, whatever) but in many cases concerning these hires, there does not appear to be any labour, productive or otherwise, to offset the pay connected to it. One way, to get unemployment numbers down I suppose. Apparently the hiring by the now ex-government hit a record high just before it was defeated. About 200,000 hires are said to be of the 'noqui' version - numbers vary....

These employees are commonly known as NOQUIS (from the Italian delicacy gnocchi).
The real thing Gnocchi (NOQUI) tasty and delicious here in Buenos Aires.

La definición en lunfardo de ñoqui, aquel que sólo cobra una vez por mes y que no trabaja, no tiene que ver con quienes se presentan al lugar de trabajo y hacen poco y nada sino con aquellos que directamente no trabajan pero tienen un sueldo estatal.

Noqui now refers to a multitude of 'workers' who are described as in above paragraph and translated here:

The definition of Noqui in lunfardo, which covers those who only turn up once a month and do not work at all, has nothing to do with those who turn up at a work place and do nothing or little; but with those who not really work but receive a public wage.

Some critics define Noquis as: Noqui-eren estudiar, noqui-ren trabajar.
(don't like to study, don't like to work)
 
For the readers who understand Spanish....here a bit of history of the Lunfardo (specific local dialect) origin of the word...
Wictionario definition of Noqui: Con el significado de aquel que cobra un sueldo fijo por un trabajo que no realiza ya que es un "acomodado". La palabra se difundió desde los 1970 y surge del siguiente modo: se difundió -y persiste- la costumbre italiana de comer un plato de ñoquis (gnocchi) con un billete bajo éste durante el día de san Pantaleón un día 27 de julio, aunque por diversas causas quizás principalmente porque "a fin de mes" mucha gente se encuentra escasa de dineros, el rito rioplatense se realiza el día 29. Tal rito se considera propiciatorio para obtener más dinero. En Argentina y Uruguay se ha hecho común comer un plato de ñoquis todos los días 29 de cada mes; por metáfora se llama entonces ñoquis a los pseudoempleados públicos, conocidos también como "ñoquis primbasicos"(ya que sólo se presentan en el supuesto empleo a fin de mes para cobrar).



 One may call these affected unfortunates 'free loaders' maybe. The new government got out the broom and is cleaning house, meaning any employees who hit the payroll under suspect circumstances and have absolutely no work assigned to them, are being reviewed one by one....and laid off.

With the usual Argentine reaction to unhappy events: one takes to the streets. The Noquis arranged a march to Plaza de Mayo on the 29th January, protesting lay offs. There was not much coverage about the 'event' neither on TV or the daily papers....

Photos and quotes: compliments of public Internet....


Sunday, January 24, 2016

Twenty Four Hours in Uruguay January 2016

Mid way point of my stay in Argentina is marked - as it is most of my winters in "the South" - with a short visit to Uruguay, namely Colonia del Sacramento, a little town founded by Portuguese during Colonial times.
It has retained much of its old world charm inside the Casco Historico, or the 'old part' of the town. Streets are still cobbled with the same irregular rocks, which used to be ballast in sailing ships plying the waters between Europe and South America taking trade goods from the New World back to the Old.
Streets are lined with old shade trees, buildings slowly peel their veneer of stucco, traditional street lamps now shine with electricity (if they have a functioning bulb) instead of gas, old mansions now house a multitude of various restaurants - all spilling over onto streets and plazas. Motor cars dating back to Ford's Model T decorate various street corners, ruins of town walls, convents and residential mansions are lovingly maintained, time goes slowly...
Slowly was the name of the game of getting to Colonia from Buenos Aires via slow Buquebus Ferry, which chugs along at a couple of knots cruising speed, and reaches the Uruguayan side of Rio de La Plata after a three hour crossing. Even casting off the docks in Buenos Aires was slow, as the ferry had to carefully navigate through a thick dense layer of rafts of water hyacinths, reinforced with tons of garbage and tree branches - the result of heavy flooding in the upper regions of Rio de La Plata and Parana. Waterfowl comfortably walked across these floating beds, and who knows how many water snakes, frogs, and 'nutria' are hiding underneath these travelling rafts.

The only thing fast on this journey is the reaction of Latin Americans, who - as soon as loudspeakers announce imminent arrival at Colonia, with a request to keep seated until docked - all immediately jump up and line up at the exit doors. Hand luggage et al is screened on arrival with the 'screener' on duty dreamily looking into the middle distance, not casting a single glance at his screening machine.

One checks in - Boutique Hotel de Vrero - a block from the harbour. Small, cosy, friendly, safe...and a ten minute walk to the centre of activity - Casco Historico. At midday the Casco enjoys a little siesta to better tolerate today's heat of 30 plus degrees.

Instead of describing more of this delightful little place in writing....here is the video.



Return to Buenos Aires the speedy way. Buquebus Atlantic III looks a little like a spaceship with a large open fish mouth. One flies across the water at nearly 10 knots, and arrives in Buenos Aires one hour later. Docking remains slow, it took a few attempts by the ferry to reach the docking ramps, as the 'camalotes' (vegetative rafts), are still covering the inner harbour.

Never mind a full 24 hours.....one finishes off the day with a little tango at Obelisco Tango. Buenos Aires is baking in 36 degrees (feels like 40)....

 

Wednesday, January 20, 2016

Quilmes.....cerveza y viboras???


Quilmes...locals and tourists to this lovely city of Buenos Aires may recognize the name of one of the many excellent local beers (which by the way comes in many different tastes). A great brew, which tastes even better when the temperatures here reach 35+ degrees Celsius.

Quilmes is also the name of a satellite city to Buenos Aires. The city is at the edge of the great Rio de la Plata, whose tributaries such as the Parana River up north have been flooding the country side lately, making thousands of people homeless.

As a result of the flooding, several meters above normal river levels, unusual things start to float downhill...

Quilmes, being one of the downhill locations, has a new claim to fame now: large 'camalotes' (rafts/beds of aquatic vegetation) arrive bobbing on the river waves and covering their surface with thick acres and acres of carpets of lush greenery.

As one may imagine, these things are a microcosm by themselves, housing frogs, snails, snakes, water rats and mosquito nurseries. In addition, they provides the only 'terra sort of firma' for other stranded small mammals trying to safe themselves from drowning.

Here we are, Quilmes Plata River beaches have disappeared under water (polluted heavily in its own right) and camalotes have reached the height of the downtown malecon (river walk way). Apart from the usual debris of every imaginable kind of 'basura' we now have an invasion of viboras y culebras (snakes and vipers) who wiggle their way into the streets and sidewalks of Quilmes. Unfortunately the bites of some of the creatures (who are not native to these southern latitudes, but normally live in Amazon type jungle habitat) are poisonous. TV programs warn, illustrated with detailed descriptions of the poisonous invaders, and beg the population - stay away.

The beaches are closed, municipal workers started to clean up with buckets, coke bottles, snake 'pinchers', plastic bins, broom sticks..(.all work overtime) the undesirables of the wild life kind.

However, families taking their kids swarm down to the 'beaches' to participate in the entertainment, totally ignoring warnings about poisonous, potentially fatal bites. In the words of one unconcerned mother, whose young boy was dangling a 'vibora' in front of her: nothing will happen. Admirable fatalism....dogs start chasing the new toys, and terrified 'nutria' try to escape to the further reaches of their temporary floating homes.

Less visible, but just as dangerous, mosquitos carrying dengue fever travel first class in these plant rafts.Quilmes now reports more than 15 confirmed infections. It's a jungle out there....


Super sized snail....(the one on the right)
 
 
 
A small snake which travelled a couple of thousand kilometers in its 'camalote'

Squirrels trying to keep their little feet dry....

The Argentinian Navy (part of it) in a bed of vegetation...

And tomorrow.....I am off to Uruguay with the local Buquebus (ferry). Their docks are surrounded by 'camalotes' as well. I just hope the snakes don't see the ferries as a pleasant alternative to their watery homes.
Photos: compliments of Internet.....

Saturday, January 16, 2016

2016 Summer Images of Buenos Aires

Summer in Buenos Aires...movies, festivals, soccer, tango, heat waves and power outages....situation normal and as vibrant as ever.

I finally did see Un Tango Mas...a film definitely worth attending. I still have not managed to witness one of the many soccer games here....I may go once tango is incorporated into the game....

 
Un Tango Mas
Our Last Tango
Love Story of Maria Nieves and Juan Carlos Copes
 
Balon d'Oro of Tango Soccer
By the way, Messi the Argentinian Soccer Super Hero just won his 5th Golden Soccer Ball. The Man who changed the definition of Great Soccer, here doing his best at scoring a great voleo.
 
The other 'pelicula' has finished as well, a bizarre escape and hunt for three criminals incarcerated for life in one of Buenos Aires Penitentiaries - high security no less.
The Script: did they or did they not escape with help 'from above' i.e. prison guards, police, secret service, owing favours to other powers that were in charge previous to the present government...how did they manage to evade re-capture for 15 days, during which they committed a few robberies, some shootouts, injuries to various police without help 'from above'...massive turn out of gendarmerie, federales, provincials, locales managed to let them escape from under their noses for 15 days...
One fugitive, Martin Lanatta, was finally captured (with the help of a borrowed horse, as the landscape is somewhat inhospitable to vehicles, as the photo shows) after he turtled a stolen half ton truck, repainted as a police vehicle...
Stolen Half Ton truck...Martin Lanatta crawled out of this one a little 'worse for wear'

The remaining two escapees were 'captured' - but not really - as they appeared at loose again as soon as the 'capture' was announced on TV...but two days later they were finally corralled in the change room of a rice mill in the Pampas of Santa Fe....
The 'Before'  Pictures....


The Three Stooges after recapture....

They were so hungry and thirsty after a few days without access to water and food, that they asked the kidnapped attendant of the mill to let them eat the doggie bone which of course by right belonged to the mill dog...first words of Christian Lanatta (his prison mate Victor Schilacci was not quoted) were: kill me or take me in, but give me a glass of water....but, the plot thickens...narco trafico and ex-cabinet minister connections, corruption of police forces, the Mexican and Chinese connection....the saga goes on.

In the meantime....




 
Avon Calling.....
the dog days of summer are definitely here. Dog-walkers pick up their charges at theowners' doors. The Labrador, who refuses to walk on a leash together with the pack (I know that dog since years) is now 'running off leash' but still joins the pack. A show of a certain canine independence: I will go for a walk with the dog walker, but ONLY if I am allowed to do so off leash....humanity consents.
 
 
Congreso...at the opposite end of Avenida de Mayo (at the other end is Casa Rosada, Government House)
The park in front of the Congreso, provides a shady location for tent cities, Buenos Aires style

Laundry at the tent city

Marble platform for make shift housing

Tent City neighbourhood

Beside the Parliament Building, the old Molinos Building, long neglected and now under reconstruction. It used to house one of the most famous 'confiterias' of Buenos Aires (the old furniture is allegedly still inside). Who knows,  one may dance a milonga here again sometime....all a question of time, Buenos Aires time, which may be somewhat lengthy and slow....
 
Bank Notes for larger nominations are in the making for 2017. Instead of political heroes and anti-heroes the new peso bills will feature heroes of the animal kingdom - a whale for 200 pesos

....and a leopard for 500 pesos

20, 100 and 50 peso notes will be replaced as well with new images. Un venado por Evita (100 Pesos), y un Condor por las Malvinas (50 Pesos), translating 'A Deer instead of Evita, and a Condor instead of the Falkland Islands'

Cats having a nap on a downtown balcony in Calle Salta, a block from Avenida de Mayo....some refurbishing needed as well. Canadian Building inspectors would have a fit!

Plaza Vaticano, beside Teatro Colon....someone tossed out a number of garbage bags filled with old headphones. A bone must have hidden among them....duly found by a perro callejero, who dug into the best smelling bag to get to the essence of things....an absolutely divine left over of someone's asado.
 
The cultural scene of Buenos Aires continues a lively as ever.
Verano en La Ciudad (Summer in the City) has started, albeit with programs attuned to reduced budgets. Huge outside life performances by top artists seem to be a thing of the past, but open air movie and music performances have taken their place. However, sitting on a balmy evening on Plaza Vaticano under a waning moon (the stars are invisible here - light pollution and air pollution are too heavy), with traffic unabated around the plaza, beside  the illuminated façade of the Teatro Colon, listening to a screened performance of Tchaikovsky and Beethoven is a good finale to an afternoon of tango.

 
 
Today in the City....35 to 36 degree heat....