La Vida es una Milonga. CAI GUO-QIANG en Argentina (La Boca) Ciudad de B...

Well, one needs to see the setting for all these fireworks...somewhere in the crowd around Caminito  yours truly is mingling with the rest of them.....

La Vida es una Milonga. CAI GUO-QIANG en Buenos Aires

The Grand Finale, of which La Cumparsita is the most impressive, of the 80 minutes of fireworks in La Boca.
Note the white fireworks, which mimic the move of a bandoneon...
The last half of the video shows 'tango nuevo', the latest re-incarnation of tango by a younger generation, who likes to dance 'apart' instead in a 'close embrace', using many figurative steps, and unconventional tango music. Personally, I prefer traditional tango salon - but, tastes differ of course.
This last segment of the show, represented the history of tango, starting with newly arrived immigrant men dancing with men (about 100 years ago or a little more) via classic tango of the Gardel years, to jazz inspired tango by Piazolla to Tango Nuevo often accompanied by electronic music.
Anyway - this is what over 250,000 spectators came to see - or not to see - depending on their location among the tightly packed crowd. Only privileged 'invitados' and television crews enjoyed a close-up of the fireworks and dance as in this video, and only 'the front ranks' could see the floating fire fountains on the river.
Spectacular indeed!

CAI GUO-QIANG. Backstage de estudios para La vida es una milonga

Preparations for the Grand Fireworks by the Chinese artist Cai Guo-Quiang

Saturday, a good day for the annual pilgrimage to the cradle of Tango and the home of Boca Juniors soccer team. La Vuelta de Rocha, as the bow of probably the dirtiest river on earth is called, adjoins iconic Caminito with its multi-coloured corrugated iron conventillos and is spanned by two emblematic iron bridges. 

Cai Guo-Quiang, world renown maestro of grandiose fireworks (see Peking Olympic Games) was scheduled to be the star of the evening, with the largest ever Latin American Fireworks to be performed on said Vuelta de Rocha. The theme - what else in La Boca - La Vida es una Milonga, meaning about 80 minutes of unceasing explosions to the sound of live tango orchestras, combined with performances of 'campeones de tango' and an open air 'dance in the street' milonga. Cloudless day, summer heat, and the usual unique odor of La Richuela sweating toxic wafts of fumes onto the sidewalks beside the river...

Ponte Viejo (Old Bridge) and Puento Nuevo (red in background) The old bridge serves mostly as a popular background for thousands of 'selfies' today, whereas the red one carries most of the traffic across the river.

Left over from times past, when pedestrians found it more comfortable to cross the river by hired row boat, instead of climbing dozens of stairs to the raised bridge level (up high to allow ship traffic) cross over and descend the same number of steps on the opposite side. There is still a small dock on either side of the river under the old bridge, but today, the only remaining rowboat sat idle on the putrid mud, albeit it apparently still has a lively business during weekdays.

La Boca (the river mouth) commemorates its maritime history in many somewhat decrepit freezes, murals, museums as well as adding contemporary 'art' of graffiti' which reflects more of present day daily life. 

Mural of La Vuelta de Riocha underneath a weather beaten balcony...

Several ten thousand square feet of floating plywood platform form the base for thousands of pipes and containers, all aligned for the Grand Spectacle tonight.

On Shore, hundreds and hundreds of Johnny on the Spot cubicles and hundreds of orange clad security personal getting ready for 'crowd control'. The sheer level of these preparations should have triggered my brain for what was to come. But so far, Boca had no more than the usual crowd of tourists, enjoying a bit of local colour - souvenirs, photos with tango dancers, over priced cervezas in open air restaurants and bars (with 'shows'), large plaster mannequins looking like guapos and tangueros perched from upper level balconies, long rows of artesan stands loaded with tango paintings etc etc etc....

Sometimes one wonders, why the Riachuelo needs a bridge at all, it is so polluted, one could literally without invoking divine powers 'walk on water' or what goes for it right here...even gulls don't hang around here.

19:00 start? Not quite, as it is still bright daylight.....by 21:00 the sun should have set...

Streets still so empty - but already restricted to traffic - that dogs may safely sleep right in the middle of the cobble stone pavement

Another tango reminder, eternalized on a ware house wall

The scene of the event...Fireworks should best be seen along the shore promenade of the small - really small - bent in the River. One street inland - forget it.

Still peaceful around Caminito. Note burnt out corrugated iron wall of a 'conventillo' historic housing complex. A series of unexplained 'incendios' has been happening in La Boca. Thing burn down mysteriously....only to make room for yet another little backstreet souvenir mall.

Just like this one...above the souvenir stalls, a line up of copies of famous painter Martin, who eternalized Boca port scenes in a dramatic and impact-full manner.

So empty, one can play ping pong between the two plaster horses fronting a 'campo' souvenir store.

Not only tango, no, Chacarera and Zamba entertain patrons of street side bars and pubs.

Around sixish.....the crowd of spectators thickens somewhat.

I have garnered half a chair in the only restaurant which faces the 'grand stage', or at least the sky above it. I shared the coveted seat with an Argentine lady named Silvia. The spot appeared initially 'save ground' in terms of not being crammed in by a sea of bodies, who arrived with a force of a tsunami, as a light enclosure separated the small restaurant space from the rest of the street....

A little later, what would be called 'standing room only' between chairs and tables had filled to capacity with eager onlookers - kids, dogs, babes in arms, wheelchairs, bicycles, and a 'muchedumbre' of humanity....

 Shortly after that, things got a little more  'crowded' indeed. No way of seeing anything that was happening on - for me - invisible stage, where tango dancers performed pre-fireworks shows. No chance of street dancing, as there was hardly room to stand. My safe harbour within the restaurant enclosure seemed more like a trap to be trampled by the multitudes.
About 15 minutes before the first firecracker went of, I decided to head for 'open' ground - GOOD LUCK. Along the entire river bend, people were squished together: shore wall to buildings, including road access to the river bend, in a way that made any movement almost impossible and breathing a matter of luck.
Three blocks, normally walked in about ten minutes, took me almost an hour - and only because I glued myself to the back of a huge man who seemed to have the same idea of escape as I had, and who slowly plowed through the 'montones' of bodies like a slow but unstoppable tank.
Reaching the end of the bend, where fireworks view would be almost nil, there was no easing of the crowd.
The old bridge, as well as the sides of the new bridge were filled to capacity with onlookers. Rooftops of abandoned buildings, cracked balconies and windows which haven't seen glass in decades were stuffed with people.
Well, no sense giving up now. For another hour or so I 'swam against the stream' of a human flood that did not let up until almost the edge of San Telmo, a dozen blocks or so away.
From afar, I heard the first explosions, turned around and perceived light in the sky over La Boca. I marveled at the stream of people, eagerly heading into this maelstroem further in - loaded with babes in arms, grand parents with walkers....how would they survive if they ever get close?
I walked another half hour to get far enough away from the Maddening Crowd, to encounter a bus - or a taxi, which until then proved to be the impossible dream: all roads plugged up with pedestrians, and I mean plugged up, who took up the entire street and all traffic lanes for MILES.

I don't know where these tow people stood, maybr atop one of the television trucks.....

Well, I always wondered if one could walk from La Boca to SanTelmo, given that the area is not exactly 'safe ground' and the distance is considerable. Well, I can say it is possible, and I did it....until I finally encountered a bus home at Calle Estados Unidos, well into San Telmo.

A Buenos Aires Experience not to be missed! Videos of the Fireworks are on YouTube - just look up
Fuegos Artificiales La Boca...although most of the videos are of Fireworks at La Boca soccer games...which go off whether or not Boca Juniors win.
Official count of spectators along the shore - 200.000 minimum!

'Nisman' Gate for Argentina?

The Public Prosecutor Alberto Nisman, was found dead, with a pistol by his hand and a single shot into his brain, in the bathroom of his condominion on the 13th floor of a condo tower of Puerto Madero in Buenos Aires. It appears a suicide, as he is laying dead blocking the entry door to his bathroom. The main door and service entry appear locked.





He death occurred on the eve of his planned presentation to the Senate of his research on an alleged cover-up by the government of a deadly attack by Iranian terrorists on AMIA, an Israeli Center in Argentina
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He appears to have been an energetic, strong positive man, who had separated from his wife three years ago. He has two children. He had cut short his recent vacations in Europe where he celebrated his daughter's quinceanos (15th birthday) to return hastily to Argentina - without any as yet known explanation.












He worked on his presentation until a few hours before his death, arranged with his personal guard to pick him up at 11:30 for a dinner appointment, left a note for his maid listing his shopping requirements for the following Monday, had a phone conversation with a colleague and sent a photo of his work desk with his presentation to this friend.









His apartment is in a 'secure' building, which requires coded keys and numerical codes for all access. But small service doors leading to an outside passage where air conditioners are mounted are not coded - the passage connects adjoining apartments.

Nisman is surrounded by heavy security, owns two registered hand guns, but borrowed the one apparently used to kill himself with from a guard a couple of days ago. He had reason to fear that he may 'not come out of this alive' (meaning the denunciation of the Government) - so he said shortly before his death.


His guards waited for him at the appointed hour - but of course he does not turn up.


Things get messy and confusing after that....it takes several hours of calling relatives, police, ambulances (who were denied access by security), fire department, lock smiths (who later says that the service door was not locked) before anyone enters the apartment to find the occupant 'sin vida'.


The News of his death exploded over Argentina, demonstrations were held all over the country. There is nothing but coverage of this event on the News....fear is simmering.









The Government's response is at best ambiguous...and the Jury will be out on this for a long time.


Someone at the Milonga at Canning observed last night, when the usually packed dance venue was half empty: People may be afraid to leave home with all this upheaval in the country.


Makes one think and wonder.

8 January....Gauchito Gil's Festival in Mercedes, Prov. Corrientes, Argentina

All Festivals in Argentina, religious or secular, have something in common: people dance. Here in Mercedes, the location were Gauchito Gil's day of execution is celebrated by hundreds of thousands of followers, the anniversary of Gauchito Gil's execution is reason enough to celebrate - after the obligatory visit to his shrine has been completed.

Antonio (Gauchito) Gil was a farm worker, in other words a gaucho. A wealthy widow fell in love, or had an affair, with him. When her brothers and the head of the police (who was also in love with the widow) found out about their relationship, they accused him of robbery and tried to kill him. He enlisted in the army to escape from their persecution. In the army, he fought against the Paraguayan army. After that he was received back in his village as a hero.

But, when he arrived at his village, he was forced to return to the army to fight in the Argentinian Civil War. It was a brother versus brother war. "Gauchito" Gil was not only tired of fighting, but also did not want to participate in a war against his own countrymen. Therefore, he deserted. He became an outlaw and acquired a reputation as a Robin Hood figure, based on his efforts to protect and help the needy.

In the end police caught him in a forest. They tortured him and hung him from his feet from an algarrobo tree. When a policeman, his executioner, was going to kill him, "Gauchito" Gil said to him: "Your son is very ill. If you pray and beg me to save your child, I promise you that he will live. If not, he will die".

After that exchange, said policeman killed "Gauchito" Gil by cutting his throat. That happened on January 8, 1878.

After the executioner returned to his village, he learned that his child was in fact very ill. Very frightened and no less superstitious, the policeman prayed to "Gauchito" Gil to save his son. Miraculously his son's condition improved. Legend has it that "Gauchito" Gil had healed his murderer's son.

Being eternally grateful for this miracle, the executioner gave Gil's body a proper burial, and built a tiny shrine for "Gauchito". Moreover, he tried to let everybody know about the miracle, with overwhelming results. Gauchito's signature colour is red, hence shrines to his memory, t-shirts, crosses, souvenirs et al are all RED.

For some reason, truck drivers have adopted Gauchito Gil as their patron saint, and Argentina's highways are lined with tiny red shrines.

Each year, literally hundreds of thousands of pilgrims camp around Mercedes. Rain, mud or heat waves do not hold the crowds back.

 

Present day gauchos with a statue of Gauchito Gill on their way to his shrine

Tattoos seem to be a favourite way to express faith in Gauchito. Many of the pilgrims are covered in Skin Deep Gauchitos.

This image appears in most of the shrines all over Argentina. Being a true gaucho he is pictured carrying his 'tres marias'.

Pilgrims on horse back arrive at Mercedes...many visitors dress as present day Gauchito incarnations

A couple of hundred thousand visitors/campers/pilgrims stretch the tiny town to it's limits

At the shrine...everyone kisses the mall Gauchito statue, some leave gifts, some cut their long hair and leave it as an offering, but everyone needs to touch it...

Typical road side shrine honoring Gauchito Gil

Miracles are credited to Gauchito by the true believers. Gauchito is not recognized by the Catholic church as a bona fide saint, however, thousands of his followers believe in his miracles anyway and leave messages and plaques in gratitude for his alleged help.
Well, Faith Moves Mountains.....

Photos compliments of the Internet.....

Nova Colonia do Santissimo Sacramento - Uruguay

Today, this little town at the edge of the Rio de la Plata carries a Spanish Name, Colonia de Sacramento, and belongs to Uruguay. It was founded in 1680 by one Manuel Lobo, with the support of the Portuguese King and traders from Rio de Janeiro of the time. Now and again, Spaniards occupied the town. Traces of Spanish, Portuguese and post colonial influence make for a happy mix of architecture in the historic centre of town.

One best arrives via Buquebus, the ferry company that connects Uruguay with Argentinia. Spending a small surcharge, one may take the fast ferry (one hour) versus the 'slowpoke' (three hours) to cover the distance between Buenos Aires and Colonia.

Many Argentinians visit to enjoy the beaches on the Uruguayan side of the river, as the waters are les polluted, albeit still brown and opaque with sediment.

The largest complement of visitors appear to hail from Germany, as most of the tourist pedestrians in town converse in German.

 

 

Buquebus Ferry arriving in Colonia de Sacramento

Honoring one of the City's Governors, whose 'long and fecund' rule turned the City into an invincible port - that what the sign claims anyway.

Plaza de Armas Manuel Lobo not only commemorates the founder of the city, but it is the major gathering place for lunch. Half a dozen bistros, bars and restaurants (La Meson de la Plaza being the most well known one and destination for many cruise land excursions) have taken over the sidewalks facing the cathedral and the plaza, and one just has to stop for a cafecito or a cerveza to enjoy a pleasant mid day interlude.

Rio de la Plata surrounds the little peninsula of Colonia on three sides.

Reflection in a shop window on Calle de Los Suspiros. The historic stone and brick houses along this quaint street now accommodate various art galleries and souvenir and local deli shop.

Calle de Los Suspiros, Street of Sighs...dates back to 1720, and is the most recognized sight of Colonia. There are no sidewalks, the road which descends slightly towards the river, is constructed of rocks previously used as ballast in trading ships. It dips towards the centre to allow rain to flow away into the  river.
The connotation with suspiros (sighs) is still under debate. Some say, it refers to the sighs of prisoners condemned to death by firing squad when they descended to the riverbank below to meet their maker, others say it refers to the moaning of the wind when it flows over the rough pavement, but most historians believe that the pleasurable moanings of lovers are to blame, as the stone houses served as bordellos around 1900 ...

The cobble stoned sidewalks and streets are relatively cool under their canopy of trees. During my visit, temperatures reached the mid thirties...



El Viejo Almacen de Fabeiro, a historic supply shop, is now one of the most popular luncheon spots on the Plaza

Local Uruguayan cervecza, as cool and as tasty as can be...

An unexpected added pleasure - impromptu accordion concert.....

Sunset over the Rio de la Plate

The sun seems to sink into the slow moving river. People gather at the shore to watch it disappear over the horizon...

Jorge Paez Vilaro, Uruguayan Painter. His house is a restaurant now; it houses many of his works....apart from being probably the best restaurant in Colonia. 

There it is La Casa de Jorge Paez Vilaro

Gancho.....the artistic version

Milonga scene.....Well, 18.000 US and up....he is indeed a very well known artist, whose paintings can be found on Google and his history in Wikipedia.

The Lighthouse beside the Plaza Mayor del 25 de Mayo. It is constructed amidst the ruins of an old Franciscan Convent, which was built in 1694. The convent burnt down in 1704; the lighthouse was constructed in 1857. One may climb up there and get a bird's eye view of the surroundings. It is a working lighthouse, and still emits its signature flash every nine seconds.

Lined up along the River....waiting for the 'Green Flash'

.....and after the Green Flash, turn 180 degrees and watch the moon rise over Colonia - quite romantic!

Characteristic street lights illuminate the passages as soon as the sun has disappeared....

Typical road construction in Colonia's historic centre

Too late for lunch and still too early for dinner, restaurants are deserted.

Empty sidewalks whilst everyone enjoys the last light of the evening by the river....

A few antique wrecks are parked since forever in El Centro, a 1952 Citroen and a 1929 Ford along this narrow road must be the most photographed cars in Uruguay.

Ruins of the old convent at the base of the light house.

Remnants of the old city wall and portal, with a drawbridge on the far side.

Up the Calle de Suspiros, which extracts it's sighs today, as one clambers up suffering from furnace heat....

Characteristic lanterns of old, now powered by energy saving electric bulbs...

Definitely not meant for promenading dressed in platform shoes....

El Faro...

A hot afternoon under shade giving umbrellas...

El restaurante de Jorge, the painter. Dinner with a glass of tinto was definitely delicious, and one had plenty of time to appreciate his art.

A few more 'oldies' lining the streets...

The second most visible beacons in Colonia, twin bell towers of the Cathedral

Yes, this place is old....

Roof tiles same as are in use in Portugal....

Jorge Paez Vilaro's image of Carlito....who could mistake that smile!