Corporation Tango during a performance at TV Publica
How it all started....men were dancing with men. Performance by Corporation Tango, December 2014, TV Publica Studio performance
Listening to one of the most well known bands in Argentina...
Dancing at a Milonga at Nuevo Chique
Tango concerts and more....
Tango Concerts....
Raul Garello leading his orchestra...
Watching Midnight Mass from the Vatican, Argentine Pope Francisco celebrating, with a wonderful performance of Misa Criolla...
All ears at an open air concert on the plaza beside Teatro Colon
El Pesebre, Nativity Scene Buenos Aires style. All figures are life-sized and could be manufactured at a wax museum. Even the produce, gift of the shepherds, was real...
Christmas angel with Samba Bum
A roman soldier, part of the Nativity Scene, obviously had too much Christmas Cheer....he is made of plaster of course
Yes, all the animals are attending...
Last Hurrah before year end: Nutcracker Ballet at the Teatro Colon, music by Tschaikovsky...
Main Floor and six levels of 'balconies'. Fortunately I had a 'seat' in the second row of one of the balconies. Each balcony has three rows of chairs, and a gallery for the standing public. Many of them brought miniature folding stools to sit down. Well, the 'seats' of the balconies are made for people with very short legs or very small children. There was no way to sit 'in line' with the seat without folding one's knees like a pocket knife....But, what plush surroundings...
Drosselmeyer's Christmas Party....
Clara, dreaming of rats, tin soldiers and nutcrackers....
Clara and her Dream Prince
Dance of the Snowflakes, who seem to be enjoying a Rocky Mountain winter scene...
Dance Arabe....
The Grand Finale of Nutcracker, Casca Nueces.....
Whilst yours truly dances on, totally twisted up with Tango....
Another unforgettable evening experiencing the Best of Argentine Tango. This time in the main studio of Public TV here in Buenos Aires - gratis. One of the best known groups of tango show dance is the Corporacion Tango (funny name for an artistic team). They performed during the 'intermission' between orchestral performances and public participation - no tango evening is complete without everybody joining in to dance - including yours truly....
The line up of artists for the evening lasting four hours, was impressive. The agenda as shown in above video clip did not mention the talented tango 'cantors', one of whom could be another Carlos Gardel.
Somewhere in this crowd of dancers, I am dancing 'under the lights of the stage'.
During the previous evening, on a totally different note, so to speak, I participated in an evening on Ave Corrientes, Broadway of Buenos Aires, listening to Folklorico. A difficult choice....the theatre on the opposite side of the Avenue staged Chaqueno Palavecino, another 'great' of Argentine Folklore, if not the most well known. However, I decided for Los Manseros Santiagenos, a group consisting of member of the same family hailing from Santiage de Estero Province. A 'tamer' finale (manseros means tamers) for a long afternoon of milonguering at Confiteria Ideal.
The oldest member of the group, playing El Bombo, the big drum, is the historic founder named Onofre Paz. However, all family members of the group apart from Onofre, Alito Toledo, Fatiga Reynoso and Martin Paz are solo artists as well.
The group broke all attendance records at the Festival de Jesus Maria and the Most renown Festival de Cosquin, they are nick named the 'Rolling Stones del Folklore'.
With that they have a following which seems more like a mass of football fans, than gauchos del campo or more or less civilized Portenos.
The theatre was packed. In the manner of football fans, supportive banners everwhere, people leaving their seats and crowding aisles, jumping up and down, wildly waving their arms (never mind a face being in the way) and singing along, one could cut and paste a football match stand into the theatre seats and it would be the same image, all totally oblivious to their surrounding except for 'their team' on the field or on stage.
I was somewhat 'nonplussed' as one needs a certain amount of courage to sit amongst these people almost crazed into latent violence with their unleashed enthusiam.
But....the music....es un sentimiento, no pueden parar! It is a feeling, that cannot be stopped.
Here they play a Zamba......honoring poets of Santiago de Estero
The Ballet Folklorico Nacional Argentino rounded out the evening with Los Manseros Santiagoenos with a selection of Zambas, Chacareros and Malambos...
And people ask....what do you do in Buenos Aires apart from dancing tango.....
6th December 2014, the day of La Gran Milonga Nacional, and 11th December every year, Dia Nacional Del Tango - and birthday of Carlos Gardel, the great revered tango singer of the early 20th century. These are two days which will delight tango aficionados.
I celebrated Gardel's birthday in fine form, after picking up a gratis ticket to El Teatro Coliseo for a performance of Orquestra Nacional de Musica Argentina. What was unusual for this performance of the orchestra, was the line up of 'directores invitados', all highly esteemed guest conductors and composers of tango: Raul Garello, Diego Schissi, Nestor Marconi, Fabian Bertero, Sania Possetti, Osvaldo Piro and my favourites Jose Colangelo (pianist, arranger & composer) and Walter Rios (bandoneon, arranger and composer).
It was not the usual 'tango show' with breathtaking dances by professionals, glittery costumes, orquestras typicas de tango, but somewhat more alike to a symphonic concert, that illustrated, that tango belongs 'up there' with the great classical music genres of late.
Here is Jose Colangelo, playing one of his creations "Todos Los Suenos" (All the Dreams). It is the same piece he performed during the Dia del Tango concert....
Here is Walter Rios, Master Bandeonista, playing Adios Nonino by Astor Piazzolla. This piece is not only a classic of tango music, but has a rather sad origin. Piazolla composed it shortly after the death of his father - titled affectionately 'Adios Little Father'...
It is such an emotional piece of music, that when played in a concert, there is nothing else that could top it.
It brought the audience to it's feet, many emotionally moved to tears, as the orchestra and the soloists had obviously poured all their emotion into their performance of this sad and lovely piece.
Here a video taken by yours truly of the 'corps de ballet'
The Gran Milonga Nacional....an event downtown Buenos Aires that complemented two more street closing fiestas: the Candombe Processions in San Telmo, and the Rock Concert on Plaza de Mayo. Not a good day to plan a drive downtown, as half of it was cordoned off to make room in the calles and avenidas of the city for the festivities.
The impressive Avenida de Mayo, a short stretch of tree lined avenue, which connects the Casa Rosada (The White House equivalent, only pink) and El Congreso (Seat of Government), was completely blocked to all traffic. The city had erected three gigantic stages at intervals along it's length, plastic chairs in rows in front of them, Johnnies on the Spot in strategic locations. All restaurants and bars had cleaned out their interiors of chairs and tables, which now graced the sidewalks and traffic lanes, to feed the hungry and thirsty and not deprive them of a minute of watching dancing in the streets, and general spectacular people watching.
And here to La Gran Milonga Nacional where a pair of revered professors of tango gave a performance with their 'corps de ballet' - in other words, some of their most accomplished tango students - some of which have reached fame in tango competitions and are teachers and professors in their own right.
Unfortunately I forgot to note down the names of these two admired tango teachers...
The stage closest to the Avenida 9 Julio had not only a stage for musicians, but also a raised dance platform constructed of roughly joined plywood sheets. Not exactly the most suitable flooring for dancing in tacos altos (very high heels) and trying to perform pivots on the balls of one's feet.
I danced a couple of times up there, with milonga acquaintances one runs into along the length of the street. It was tough going, almost tougher than street pavement, where I danced with a few more friends passing by...
I was fortunate, that a friend had invited me to the 'exclusive' enclosure at the bottom of the BIG stage - seats and tables, a good view of the performers, and free Coca Cola...obviously, the ply wood dance floor does not keep tango fans sitting down - the raised pista was filled with dancing spectators between every act...of which there were many.
For instance, many tango orchestras performing in the most well known shows in the City as well as professional show dancers from tango shows such as Esquina Gardel and Copes' own grand show on the Avenida 9 Julio...
Things happen at night here....the Gran Milonga got under way around 8 p.m. with concurrent performances on all stages as well as dancing in the streets and would last until 3 a.m.
Main traffic thoroughfare, dedicated to 'better use'....
Podesta, cane and all, 90 years old, and still singing the old beloved tango songs. Argentinians appreciate their old artists, and the crowd breaks into wild cheers - some cry - to show their love and appreciation
Midnight - and time for a copa....
Looking down the Avenue de Mayo....plugged with dancers to the very end
If one is fortunate enough in Argentina, one may be invited to a private 'do' in a private house. The tango crowd is famous for being very 'private' and friendships - if one could call the 9 minute encounters on the dance floor friendship - do not migrate outside of the milonga, unless one has been friends and dance partners for decades.
But, the folkloric community, the ones who usually hail from the provinces and now live and work in and around Buenos Aires, preserve their culture and - lucky for me - their warm hospitality.
As I am taking lessons in 'folklorico' dancing (due to the fact that I really enjoy the Argentine Folkloric music) I have slipped into the grove somehow. This is the second time, that the dance teacher, Carol Retamoso from Salta Province, has arranged for her students to 'live and dance it up' at one of her student's houses.
Everybody brings something...bread, wine, Fernet, Coca Cola, appetizers, salads and so on, just the same as we do at Canadian pot lucks. However, here the chicos (the guys invited to the party) turn up with 'the meat'. And meat they eat here. Matambre (meat close to the ribs but without the bones), lomo (tenderloin), morcillos (blood sausages), chorizos of every kind, and a whole chivito (baby goat). The guys put these on their parilla at home (wood fired Argentinian BBQ where meat is on slow roast) and bring them ready to eat to the party.
No one bothers about 'decorating' the house. All available tables are lined up in an empty space, and however many chairs are around are drawn up. That's it, with food and drink piled on the table, the feast begins.
Of course, whilst all the preparations are in progress, one must not forget to dance. A room uncluttered with any furniture, except a computer playing folkloric music, with a smooth hardwood floor turns into the dance floor. And EVERYONE dances...
Carol Retamoso, during one of the intermissions between feasting, gave a little lesson in how to use the iconic 'panuelo' (handkerchief) during a Zamba dance. The Zamba is a very romantic courting dance, which originates in the country where young people were chaperoned and not allowed to talk to each other. Being young and resourceful, the youngsters developed the language of the 'panuelo', which can express anything from love, longing, heart ache, welcome and good bye, even marriage proposal. It's not just a crazy waving of a piece of cloth. Of course, when dancing, the hand and kerchief become part of the dance and are deployed with grace and elegance.
It started out with the usual 'tormentas' - rain, hail, wind....
The banquet table....
No room at the table? No problem, lets dine off the cooler and sit on the floor!
Wine from Mendoza, not available in stores, but brought directly from the vineyard in demi johns
Hey, if you think Piping in the Haggis is unique, how about Strumming in the Chivito (goat)
Bread and meat - the chivito is ready to be cut up
Live music - of course!! But the guitar has to take a rest during the banquet.
Saxophone and guitar - just right
Drink of choice of many 'campesinos' Fernet (herb liquor) mixed with Coca Cola. To make serving it easier, one just cuts a coke bottle in half, pours in the mix, and shares it around.
Everyone can play guitar and sing - and dance....
Chamame, danced to our little band on the - now dried up - back yard patio.
And here is how the really good Chamame Dancers perform a Chamame
Generation Gap? It hasn't been invented here, yet.
Our Folkloricos lined up in the back yard....
Other than tango, for sure, Candombe touches on black history in Latin America. Still very much alive and well especially in Uruguay, once a year, Candombe groups from Argentina and Uruguay meet on the streets of San Telmo and drum and dance their way from late afternoon until late at night. The history of Candombe - Wikipedia should do it for the interested. For the uninitiated, each group represents an African Village, with dancers (vedettes), a mother figure, a wise old man, and warriors. As each group makes such a racket, the procession moves slowly, with at least 300-500 meters between each, to give spectators a chance to recover their hearing I suppose.
This gives an idea of the atmosphere....one almost feels transplanted into the deepest Africa with a little bit of Rio de Janeiro Carnival thrown in for show appeal.
All bands are costumed to reflect their origin and group membership. All starts out pretty 'normal' with hats and t-shirts, but when night falls, the costumes become more daring and more glittery....
Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo - a good place to watch and listen, whilst indulging in a little refreshment, which yesterday at 33+ degrees was almost a must.
All bands are preceded by flag wavers...
All colours, gender and ages participate....
A 'village mother' chatting with a female drummer.
Dressed for the heat.....
A vedette joking with an onlooker
Streets are blocked off for miles while bands slowly 'march' through taking very tiny rhythmical steps...
Face paint reflect the colours of the flag and club....
Never mind how heavily pregnant, this as yet unborn infant is being danced through the streets anyway...
The principal noise maker - drum
Participants arrive in yellow schoolbuses, which spill their load of actors and drums into a side street, where the preparations begin: costumes, face paint, leg wraps and heating of the drums...
San Telmo of course is also tango paradise, with murals and tango cafes almost at every corner
Note the leg bandages.....young drummer practising for his performance
The younger generation of vedettes
Along a side walk in San Telmo
The great undress....
Fires along the cobble stoned streets, where drummers warm up their instruments...maybe heated and expanded air inside the drums gives an additional acustic effect; I am not clear on the exact physics of this preparation
Young 'old village man' ready with his cane...
Welcome to San Telmo...
Many 'serious' vedettes weat impossibly high heels, and dance for hours on cobble stone pavements...how they avoid the cracks and holes is a mystery to me
The drummers work as hard with their fingers, as the vedettes do with their feet. FInger tips are bandaged to enable them to survive the hours of drumming to come
A line up of vedettes, ready to girate and shake to the beat of the drums.
The robe will come off soon...
to dance almost in the 'alltogether'
Calle Defensa (where the Candombe action takes place) reaches Plaza de Mayo and Avenida de Mayo, both being 'the centre' of downtown Buenos Aires. While Candombe beats around neighbouring San Telmo, the rest of the centre is cordoned off for a pre Christmas Rock Concert taking place on a huge stage in front of the Metropolitan Cathedral. I did not catch the name of the performer, but he sure drew thousands of people into the Plaza and the Avenida with his quasi religious rock songs. Make shift parillas in the form of oil drums cut in half lengthwise, took care of the hungry (no miracles of the loafs and fishes here), security staff in orange vests joined the religious fervour, police had mounted barriers as far away as a couple of blocks.
Following the songs with arms raised in prayer....
Jesus (Super Hero) loves you
A 'counter' of a parilla, where chorizos are smoking up a storm over a charcoal fire, and salsas and soft drinks are offered as a 'side'.
Canadian Health authorities would have a fit, as parillas defy any rules of hygiene, apart from smoking up all of downtown.
And the rest of Avenida de Mayo....closed off for the night as well, to accommodate three more giant stages for performances of the Gran Milonga Nacional, where Buenos Aires tango takes over the street. More about that later.
Well, a typical Buenos Aires Saturday afternoon - tough to be bored.
