Matadero Feria - El Ultima Dia para mi

The last day for me, a Sunday, which coincided with the opening of the Feria de Mataderos - after a one week delay caused by torrential rain during the previous Sunday. Not a bad way to say Adios to a vibrant city like Buenos Aires.
This time around, the closed off streets were filled with artesan stands, food stands, performance stages, hundreds of tables and chairs to accommodate BBQ revellers - and of course horses and Gauchos. The Feria after all celebrates the history of the barrio of Matadero, where gauchos managed cattle on their last day before finishing up on one of the many Parillas.
No parking beyond this sign....at least as far as cars are concerned.

Fall in Matadero - sunny, warm, pleasant....everybody out and about.

Outside the general melee of vendor stands, young and old Gauchos are preparing for the ride- past of father and son teams. Very proud of their traditions, the old customs are handed over from father to son and the urban gaucho maintains his traditional presence in Buenos Aires proper.

On the elevated stage in front of a large bronze statue of a 'resero', a cattleman, the younger generation dances to the music of the Pampas.

This is definitely serious business, the young princesses are made up like miniature models, and the young 'reseros' are very conscious of their proud macho gaucho heritage.

One Gaucho, who still wears the original gaucho hat, neither beret nor flat rimmed elegance.

Father and Son and a proud Steed...

Urban middle age spread does not keep anyone off the back of his beloved mount...

The 'President' of the Association for Gaucho Tradition and one of his attendants. Obviously being the leading man, one has to display the most authentic outfit in all it's tough and scruffy glory...

Gaucho horse halter, hand made from rough cow hide...

The smaller version of a 'Criollo' is being readied for a future gaucho by a collection of dads...

May the Parade begin...

Practising Gauchodom with a plastic criollo...

Practicing riding skills amongst the pedestrian crowd...

Dancing in the streets by urban gauchos and regular pedestrians. This dancer was at least seven feet tall, but he gracefully danced with his equally tall mujer during the whole day.

Dancing 'together'...even during their stately folkloric dances, there seems to be a gentle connectedness between the partners: eye contact, courteous touch, sensitive leads, warm smiles...

But, even folkloric dance appears to bear a trace of tango movement...

Just get into the act and enjoy the music, the atmosphere and the glorious weather...

And a bit of solo dancing won't be out of place either...

To get a seat at one of the dozens and dozens of tables was almost impossible, as feria visitors took advantage of the many parillas offering everything in terms of grilled meat...

Now we know why the gauchos wear these incredible knifes in their belts - to hack the sides of beef into smaller slabs...

Oil drums cut in half and filled with charcoal smoked and emitted burnt meat aroma throughout the closed off streets...

This is actually a male BBQ attendant, armed with nothing else but a long knife he managed various grilling surfaces surrounding a 'serving table', where his buddies were filling small baguettes with sausage, steak and chicken.

Here we go...Chorizo, Blood Sausage, Lomito, Ribs, Steaks...you name it, you get it and in very very LARGE portions.

What else but a Gaucho Mural to close off this post and wave Good Bye to Feria de Matadero.

Nuestros Caballos - Argentinian Musical Ride

The Brigada Azul, which is the Argentinian equivalent to the Canadian RCMP Musical Ride, entertained the visitors to the Nuestros Caballos exhibition. In contrast to the Canadian RCMP all the Argentinian police mounts are chestnuts instead of bays, as they need to be in Canada to qualify for acceptance to equine RCMP rank. The Boss on his tall beautifully outfitted horse. Colours on tack are mostly light blue and white, to reflect the colours of the Argentine Flag. Note the long ceremonial sabre carried on the saddle.

Here they are starting off with formation riding. No jackets, as the afternoon soon would have been to hot to let these guys survive the performance without passing out. The horses are in excellent shape. They are either of the Argentinian Saddle horse race, or the Argentinian Tiro. The latter to me is a mystery, as they look the same as Saddle Horses to me.

Just like our RCMP, here is the famous wheel.

Yhe head gear of the riders consists of a small cap with a visor.

The chief again...

Individual obedience demonstration. Reacting to an almost invisible aid, all the horses laid down in the arena, without any sign of being at least incommoded by it.

The riders laid on top of them, stood on their heads...

crawled between their front feet...

in addition to a whole number of other incredible tests of patience (of the horse) until they all sat up like puppy dogs and finally rose to their feet again.

Standing quietly in place the horses allowed their riders to crawl all over them, and perform a number of gymnastics on their backs...

or hang from their necks or vault off their croups...

Human pyramids stacked up on horse back - with the only female police officer in sight making up the top of it.

Living jumps...one has to have a lot of trust in the horse to expose the family jewels like that...

Gallopping threesome on two horses...

Or threesome upside down...

Threesome made up of two horses and one rider...

Well, why not multiply the whole thing and gallop around in party mode...

Some of the members of the Brigada Azul showing off their beautiful animals...

with the final honour going to THE Argentinian horse, the Criollo, who led the entire brigade out of the ring for a final Adios.

Nuestros Caballos - The Gauchos...

Gauchos - the early Outlaws of the Argentine Pampas. They roamed the wide expanses of the plains of Argentina, a trusty horse for a friend, and feral cattle for food, free, unfettered and absolutely beyond the reach of law and civilization. Answering to no one, relying on nobody, trusting only their own kind. Here is the stereo typical Gaucho - rough, bearded, dressed in wide pants, vest, broad woven belt, straw and cloth shoes and a high crowned hat with the rim turned up over the forehead. His poncho slung over his shoulder, and his kerchif knotted around his neck.

Here is today's equivalent. The style of hats has evolved, and now includes berets, flat rimmed hats, and - yes - sometimes the old top hat.

Profiles bear traces of Spanish and Romanic origin: strong noses, dry bone structure, dark eyes...

Some show definitely Indian roots, as many Andean natives have adopted and adapted to the Horse and Cattle culture and are masterful in theirs horsemanship.

Relaxed and at ease...loose fitting pants (who have a cuff around the ankles), soft leather boots, wide belt, kerchiv and beret.

The beret fashion ranges from small versions to some with ample brims, and the style differences in the 'how to wear a beret' are only limited by the number of Gauchos sporting that particular headwear.

Cloth belts, like our Voyageur belts, are wrapped tightly around the waist. Patterns are classic Andean, some Incan, designs.

Even a Gaucho likes his Hamburguesa or Pancho (hot dog) between rides...

Stirrups can be round rubber rings like these, woven leather loops, wooden disks and various other editions of the same idea. The foot is slid in as far as the heel, the weight is NOT resting on the balls of the feet.

Sheep or Alpaca wool vests are commom

Observing the competition with an eagle eye...

Retired Gaucho, out with his Mujer, and watching his comrades. He is dressed in traditional Gaucho pants: ample, pleated and loose and baggy over the top of his highly shined black boots.

Young Gaucho girl....no kid wears a helmet here, they all wear either flat hats or berets.

Gaucho Family. The machos all in working gaucho gear, mother turned out in Latin country fashion: airtight pants, platform shoes with 8 inch heels, long flowing hair...

Dressed to impress for horse and rider

Young Gaucho boy awaiting his turn in the ring...

Some Gauchos wear waist length Jackets to complete the traditiol style of wide legged pants

One of the very few Gaucho ladies, dressed in wide pants (outside boots to look like a skirt) and covered with a generous poncho

Peruvian Paso Fino and his rider dressed in a Poncho. Most Estancias (Ranches) have individual and uniquely designed ponchos for their riders.

Wearing a folded poncho over the shoulder is part of the Gaucho's fashion statement.

Winner of the Reining Criollo horse competition...

Most of the Gauchos wear their Gaucho Knifes stuffed into their belts. Silver sheaths and handles adorn them.

I wonder what would happen during a Canadian Exhibition if half of the participants wander about - and ride in competitions - with these impressive little weapons on their bodies. Security would have a fit.

Gauchos without their head gear - listening to the Argentinian National Anthem.

Most Gauchos wear leather belts over their woven cloth belts. Some have extra leather pockets, some are adorned with silver coins and all have elaborate buckle and silver chains arrangements in the front.

Twentyfirst century technology has made it onto Criollo horses...the cellphone can even be found in a Gaucho's pocket. Maybe they carry these knifes to be ready just in case someone is barbequing a piece of cow somewhere, and one needs a tool to slice a bit off for lunch.

The kids are introduced early to riding and horses, proud daddies take the around on their victory rides

Even little girls get a kick at it, albeit Gaucho culture is definitely a macho domain.

Watching these guys ride is like watching centaurs - they seem to be in total harmony with their mount, as if they were of one body and of one mind.