Monday, December 31, 2012

Domingo in Whacky Buenos Aires



Calle Defensa between Plaza de Mayo and Plaza Dorrego on a Sunday afternoon
The whole family tends the open air stall....
Freshly shaven, with furry booties and frizzy hairdo, and one ear dyed pink, a busker dog stands on the shady side of the street.
Now what, says the mature hippie....
It's either the heat or too much cerveza, but one indulges in a siesta...
Internet Cafe sign
The more duster feathers the less hair....
Pochi, oozing charm at 76+++
Snacking in between sales...
Portenos hanging out
Turista?
San Telmo Balcony
Sunday, many of the regular shops are closed, and the 'Persianas' (roll down metal shades) are closed. Most of them reveal the work of nocturnal graffiti artists...
Profiles of light and shade...
It is incredible, but many of the street vendors are thoroughly familiar with Literature as opposed to pulp fiction, and not just Argentinian writings but international as well.
Soccer en miniature....Argentinian of the Year is of course a soccer player, albeit he plays for a team in Spain just now: Messi.
Creativity in a spray can
Taking the pooches out for a turn around the block
Where are my cigarillos...
Cute, but not for sale...
Mate Man
Cycling is becoming fashionable. Even Borges Street, where I live, has been narrowed down to allow a designated bicycle lane. Great for cyclists, bad news for people losing that side of the street for parking
I did not even notice when I snapped this picture, that the baby was just having lunch...
Portal to Buenos Aires City Museum - entry free



HAPPY NEW YEAR
&
FELIZ ANO NUEVO!!!


Yes, back in Argentina...

Surrounded by Buenos Aires architecture

and unmistakable patriotism in every ciudadano (Citizen)



Bright sunshine, temperatures around the lower thirties centigrade. Sunday and most shops are closed, but the neighbourhood grocery stores and fruit stands are open. One stocks up...



Then, one tops up the 'SUBE' electronic pass, still in my pocket since last year's stay. 50 pesos, i.e. 10 dollars, buy me 20 rides on the subway, or more on the buses.



The old 'unlocked' cell phone from Canada still works for local calls here.



So off to downtown, heading for the Sunday market along Calle Defensa and San Telmo, a long cobble stone walk from Plaza de Mayo.



First time on the subway, and I received a great introduction: a fight broke out between one busker band and another, probably competing over subway car territorial rights to fleece the riders...Fellow women passengers left the car, I went back to the platform. Train drivers etc separated the combatants, peace returned, all climbed back on the subway and off we went.

Vacant Sube (Subway) car, stage for many buskers...

Photographing this little fellow nearly got me into trouble with a lady passenger...



I photographed a passenger's dog, which must have aroused suspicion with my seat neighbour. First she asked from which country I hailed, then she wanted to know what I photographed...all in Spanish of course. I assured her, that I only captured the 'cachorro', little dog, on film, which satisfied her. After a few Feliz Anos Nuevos we parted friends.



I let the photos of the Sunday Open Air market speak for itself....

Empanadas Grandes, a local delicacy of pastry pockets filled with everything imaginable...

Having a siesta underneath the vending stand...


Icecold Quilmes at the Mifalda Cafe, one has to stay 'hydrated' in this heat.


Music at every street corner

Even the Parillas (open air BBQ) offer live entertainment

Main ingredient for Choripan, Chorizo on Breadroll, Argentinian Hotdog...
one needs music and beer to digest this snack!






Osvaldo and Pochi, both in their late seventies, are still alive and tangoing on Sundays on the Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo, where the most famous Antiques Market takes place. Well, P&O almost qualify for priceless antiques.

Osvaldo and Pochi, another year older and still dancing...
Definitely NOT tango shoes



Of course, there has to be a demonstration on Plaza de Mayo. This time it commemorated a terrible tragedy, which happened exactly 8 years ago in Buenos Aires. A disco named Chromagnon burnt down, killing 192 youth which were trapped inside without a chance to escape...the exit doors were locked.

Casa Rosada, the seat of Government, heavily guarded, but with Sunday visitors crowding 'Evita's Balcony'...

Photos of the 192 victims of the Inferno at Chromagnon 30 Dec 2004
For each of the victims - one star in Plaza de Mayo



The Archbishop of Buenos Aires held a commemorative mass in the Cathedral. It was attended by hundreds of youth, relatives of the deceased carrying photos, and the general public. Heartbreaking, to see all these parents, brothers, sisters and other relatives lighting one of 192 candles and walking slowly up the Altar to receive Holy Communion from the Archbishop, who embraced them all.

Every seat in the cathedral is taken, and faithful lean against columns...this elderly gentleman kept talking to himself, gesticulating as if he was making a speech. He was dressed in a formal suit, a heavy coat, and carried two bags....homeless man with style?

Relatives lighting one candle for each victim of the tragic fire at Chromagnon

Walking up the centre aisle with candles and photos of the victims
Apart from the Chromagnon demonstration, there is the perpetual protest against something..
Defend Democracy, Fight Indifference...
Malvinas Veterans (Falkland Island War a few decades ago) still demanding justice after all these years..
Here it says:
The Malvinas are and always will be Argentina
Tell that to the occupants of the Islands, who are overwhelmingly British and want to remain so.
But.....there is oil underneath them thar ocean waves....
The Federales, protecting the citizenship from themselves.

Here are the Chromagnon demonstrators marching onto Plaza de Mayo



Happier images tomorrow....



Sunday, December 30, 2012

Hasta Luego Amigos...

A long days journey into a few nights...

Epic transit to Buenos Aires, and undertaking that takes about four days, if one does not want to succumb to split second timing and suffer from snowed in Malahat drives and cancelled ferries.

After the usual taxi, Greyhound Bus, Pacific Coach Bus, Ferry Ride, back onto Pacific Coach Bus #1 and transfer to Pacific Coach Bus #2, and finally a Hotel Shuttle from Vancouver Airport to a near by hotel. At least I made it off the Island to Vancouver, where my flight departs.

Cruise Terminal at Canada Place shrouded in mist

Keeping warm at the bus stop


Canada Line Rapid Rail in Vancouver

Cheap and cheaper, but who would want to walk around in these triple decker pumps?

Family Outing to the Pacific Centre Mall in Vancouver

Boxing Day and almost everything in the surrounding area of the hotel is closed. By now it is pitch dark, and one walks along unlit weed covered deserted railway rails to The Boathouse, a place to eat some fish food at great expense.

Traces of First Nation Protest - people gather in various locations and leave their protest message behind
s
Street Education of the brenefits of pot - it must be Vancouver!

The 'extra' day provides an opportunity to ride the Canada Line in Vancouver. $2:50 takes one downtown, bleak and half dark today. It drizzles a little, after all it is Vancouver, where a day without rain is unheard of in winter.

Sidewalk cafes, sensibly placed under glass in rainy wintry Vancouver

Still, post Boxing Day shopping frenzy is still in full swing, and Malls and Shops are open for business. Despite the story, saying, that Vancouver ranks as the third lowest in fashionable citizens (not my statistic). Women dressed in the latest style abound, and quite a few men mince about in the latest Meggins (leggins for men). Well, it may be stylish...but these clinging stove pipes sure don't do anything for manly calves. Henry VIII, Robin Hood, Juliet's Romeo....they all seem to have a better knack of carrying this style off with panache, must be the padded velvet jerkins with the slit sleeves they wore with them?

Native Art with a modern flair

Gastown and it's famed steam driven clock
Asian Influence in Gastown...a Sushi Place with a diner's theme

Fusion cuisine - Zen Sushi with Vancouver Message - Bon Appetit


Next morning at three a.m. it's off to the airport. With 2 bags, a roll on cart and a back pack I battled my way to the check in counter. Elevators are all on the blink, and there are NO luggage carts at the top of the working (!!!) escalators. Three hands would have helped.

Despite snowstorms all over the North American continent, I am lucky...so far, all my three flight segments are on schedule.

Of course one has to battle security...I am not sure, how often I have shown my passport, every time there is a door, a hallway - anything - out comes the passport. Washrooms seem to be the ONLY place were one does not have to present every imaginable piece of identification.

Get rid off luggage at drop off between check in and security - the luggage is photographed together with your boarding pass.

The crescendo is the usual USA security ordeal with disrobing, unpacking, bare footing and see through x-ray pictures - don't we love it? Then the stern faced interrogation at immigration, who scanned passport and boarding pass and up comes the portrait of my luggage - neat!

Welcome to the USA.

OK, first leg to Chicago - with four hours to kill at O'Hare. Thanks to point travel I am 'first class' hence access to the lounge - brand new one, lovely bar, good cheeses, fresh fruit. I sank into one of the over stuffed easy chairs and flirted with the tiny dog next to me - travelling inside a net-bag, and having to 'hold' it since several hours because of snow storm delays. The owner was unaware of the many 'pet relief' stations in the airport. Things are looking up for flying pets.

Blessed Peace in the United Club Lounge

Then onto Newark, and another United Club Lounge for a few hours.

Finally the last leg: heavenly. After a truly sumptuous dinner, one goes to sleep: totally flat! A real fluffy pillow, and an Eiderdown to go with it. See Ya tomorrow!

After a really profound sleep, I woke up when the plane passed over the border between Paraguay and Argentina. Lush greenery down there, the River Plata winding its way toward Buenos Aires.

Welcome to Buenos Aires, with an upgraded modernized Terminal, so the happy advertising in the immigration hall says: new approach bridges, new luggage belts, new street lights, additional parking, more immigration booths, new gates and loading ramps - wow!

Well, hundreds and hundreds of arriving passengers crowded into the Hall, divided by Argentinos, Mercosur Members and Touristas - that's anyone coming from anywhere else but South America. Line ups snaked around dividing tapes for ever, barely inching forward.

Nothing to do but hang in there - for one and a half hour. Finally my turn arrived, and I was allowed to the inspection booth. First a photo, then finger prints, then the reciprocal fee receipt. That one, since yesterday, had to be purchased on line before arriving in Argentina - lucky me, I had done that. But, a few people had to go off and find a computer with a printer SOMEWHERE in the pre immigration airport, only to have to get back in line for another one and a half hour lining up.

Troubles almost over, transfer chauffeur was waiting, luggage had arrived...must be the luggage photos! No strikes or protests along the route either - the Gods are smiling down on me.

My apartment here is small, but neat and clean, and well furnished. Kitchen and bath are tiny, but adequate and everything is working. Home for the duration....
Almost there....the grand Rio Plata!